20 Most Recent 1998 BMW M3 Questions & Answers


Check the fluid level. If it is good get the transmission filter and fluid changed.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 21, 2017


Take a look at this website:
http://www.drvanos.com
It will detail how to do the work. If the link is removed search for Dr vanos (no spaces) and you will find them

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Jun 12, 2017


It could be numerous problems - consult a reputable shop - you need someone that knows what they are talking about to physically look at the car to solve the problem - will save you a lot of time and expense. ?

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Dec 24, 2014


Trouble Code P0442 - Evap system, small leak. Many times it is because the gas cap was not put back on properly or the rubber gasket (flat ring) no longer is sealing properly. Inspect the cap, replace the gasket if necessary, install correctly, and drive it for several on/off cycles.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 17, 2014


1997-1998 E36 Fuse Positions:
There are four fuses (#32, #33, #37, and #44) located in the plastic front power distribution box located in the left-hand rear corner (nearest the driver) of the engine compartment that cover the cigar lighter. The numbers are marked look under box cover.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 17, 2014


Do not know of a "Window Relay" for a 2-door M3 convertible. But there is a "Window motor to regulator" in the door itself.
However, there are two 30 amp fuses (#14 and #19) located in the plastic front power distribution box located in the left-hand rear corner (nearest the driver) of the engine compartment that I would check to see if this is your problem before digging down into door interior disassembly. The numbers are marked look under box cover.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 17, 2014


The dealer is the only way that I know. Be prepared to prove that the car belongs to you.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 17, 2014


live just be yellow, switch live is red and ground is black.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 17, 2014


You need to reset it: Two choices dealer or with an airbag reset toll (e.g. Peake Research R5/SRS approximately $130). If it keeps coming back on, a common fault is one of the front seat belt buckle connections. Here is the internet address. http://www.peakeresearch.com/

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Oct 17, 2014


dead M3.
what coujntry, in USA scan tools, all ever made work on 1998
and in canada too ,staring in 1998, and 1996 USA.
so plug it in and see whats UP./?

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Jun 23, 2014


Use the CD selection numbers. The numbers should range only from 1 to 6. Once you enter all 5, it should accept it unless the code is wrong.

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Apr 04, 2014


For a European M3 coupe (S50 engine) made 01/1998. BMW part number:
Crankshaft with shells: 11211405259
AT-Crankshaft with shells: 11211405262
See RealOEM.com and enter your specific info

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Nov 05, 2013


If you did not get a card with the owner's manual, you will have to pull the radio part way out and read the serial number. Then go to the dealer and have a service writer punch the serial into his computer and he can tell you the code. If the dealer wants $$ to do this, go to another dealer.
The radio is held in by two 5-sided cup head screws. You might be able to jamb some other tool in there and loosen them if they are not too tight. If the radio has never been removed, they are tight and you will need to buy the proper tool on line. I got mine from a fellow who makes them at home, Z3Richard@aol.com, but the specialty tool places sell them as well.


1998 BMW M3 | Answered on May 27, 2011


"Blue juice" running on the ground ? You may have a broken hose between the pump/reservoir and the jets on the hood. Also, there is an inline check valve. Follow the hose and you will find it. Sometimes these get clogged. Also, the jets on the hood can get clogged. This can usually be cleaned out with a small pin. (I keep a sewing needle in my toolbox for this.)

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on May 14, 2011


Heater core and radiator are separate issues. But, both may have the same problem. The best non-commercial way I have found to remove internal obstructions from either is to use a household calcium and rust remover (like CLR)...On heater cores, remove both hoses and fill the core with product, then let it stand for a couple of hours. then drain and backflush.
On engine radiator, remove it, plug the lower hose connection and do the same...fill with product, let stand then backflush, then turn radiator upside down & repeat in opposite direction. The reason standard water flush often does not work is that water simply goes around the plugged area and does not remove anything except for minor debris which sometimes can actually plug other passageways and make the condition worse.
Back to the heater. It's possible that a blend door is not operating and therefore not allowing hot air to enter the heater box...check this as well.
Definitely make sure that fan is coming on and that the thermostat is actually working (I don't trust anything new just because it's new) Also check sensor & relay for fan.
Likely information "overload" but I hope something here helps!

1998 BMW M3 | Answered on Mar 18, 2011

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