20 Most Recent 1997 BMW 318 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

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Please check your coil and spark plugs for malfunction. Replace them if needed.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5272549_enter-bmw-radio-code.html

I got the above link by searching under '1997 BMW radio code' and got several links.

try a tester on the alternater when the car aint running or if you have recently fitted a radio maybe you got the wires wrong way round and its on power all night

Most likely yes.May not have a dipstick.

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The M spec 318 is a very good car and motor. Strong and reliable. One of the tops of the BMW class. BMW 318 is a very good rated car, the M spec has those little extras to make it even that much better. I would recommend this car.

check to see if anything is stuck in the path of the roof when it is going down. It is most likely jamming up somewhere or your motor that lowers the roof is going bad

Hi

I am a big fan of these cars, as you can see from my picture with the yar of the car I would expect the back wheel arch to have some rust and it is very common, the most common part in fact, the other part for rust is near the headlights on the little strip that runs round. the 318 is the m42 16v engine and is very reliable. I think the reason for the price of the car is the mileage, as that is very low for a car that age. they sell on ebay between 600 and 2000 depending on year, miles and condition. I paid £700 for mine but it had 140k miles, sounds a lot but you can expect yours to get well over 200k miles, these cars if looked after are cheap to run, good on fuel and bullet proof, the average cost of £1000 is about right for the car. If the back arch is the only fault then it sounds like a good one.

Check for any holes in the air pipes, check the engine service lights on the dash, listen for rear wheel bearing noise if all these are good then it sounds cheap to me.

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Dan

Could be as simple as a corroded post(s) on your battery. It would get enough current thru to light the dash, but not enough to engage the solenoid of the starter. Try cleaning the connections with a wire brush and then re-installing, making sure the connections are snug.

If it still acts up, see if you can jump it and take it to a auto parts store for a battery check. Most will provide this service for free.

If the battery checks out OK, you likely have a bad solenoid on the starter.

Good luck!

Hi

do you mean the ignition barrel where you start the car?

is it spinning around?

Regards
Dan

There should be a top hose and a bottom hose, both are large hoses. When the engine is COLD remove them both. All of the coolant will drain out, give it a help by removing the coolant cap too (where you add coolant). Be ready for a lot of mess, it is likely a brown colour - this is fine. The whole engine will drain out, removing all coolant. You can turn the engine over for a few seconds to pump it all out if you wish. But dont run it long.

Now, reattach the hoses and then fill up the coolant as recommended, remembering your mixture of anti freeze! Sometimes its easier to fill up as the engine runs cold. This is because the coolant will be dragged in by the engine. NOW remember, until the thermostat opens the whole coolant wont be in the system. So wait until the engine is warm, and keep topping up to the level shown. Remember, its easier to add than take away.

This is a good reference too..

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/1272246

this engine should not have a timing belt, the m 40 engine had, this should have a chain which is for lifetime in the car. no replacement necessary

remove the dip stick tube and remove the upper screw from above
remove the bottom screw from the bottom.
some times the screw is stuck, you need to spray some lubricant and let it set for a while.
it's a tight spot so you need to turn the starter switch to top and move it downward on it mount.

you need to check the heater control valve it sounds like the coolant is not flowing into the heater core and also make sure the coolant level is full, just because it doesnt overheat mean that the sysyem is full, another problem is the core plugs up yoou may want to flush the heater core with a water hose first, remove the two hoses to the core then use waterhose with a nozzle and stick on one side of the heater core end and flush then do the same to other side to this a few time switching from side to side connections, hope this is helpful.

sorry to say sounds like u need a compressor to me.....hope these helps.....

It could be the impellor wearing out on the water pump, though I have not heard of this issue in your make of car, I have seen it first hand in other makes. The thermostat may not be opening up all the way, flow restriction,. The coolant temperture sensor could be going out, and the gauge in the dash could be going out. You could have flow restrictions else where in the engine. Have you ever had the engine flushed? these are the things that I can think of that would make your engine run hotter than normal.

Hi, it sounds like either the drum or tumblers inside the ignition switch are jammed. You could take a hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the switch. DO NOT beat it or you will damage the unit. You just want to dislodge anything that might be sticking inside. It may not fix it, and you might end up replacing the switch. Its not too bad of a job, it shouldn't take a good mechanic over 30 minutes to do.