Top 20
1996 BMW 318 Questions & Answers
Heater hose circut
Did you replace the thermostat? Sounds to me like it may be stuck closed.
Have that checked out.
2/8/2018 9:03:03 AM •
1996 BMW 318
•
57 views • 0 helpful votes
BMW
hi
whats the problem with the car?
steering being light is not a fault.
thank you
9/30/2017 11:57:04 AM •
1996 BMW 318
•
106 views • 0 helpful votes
Intermittent Heater Fan
ProTip: Your car is known as an "E36" body style. If you're Googling problems and you want to get to high-quality answers from people who own the same car and have probably dealt with your same problem, search for your symptom using the term "E36".
The classic symptom of a blower resistor failure is that the fan works on the highest speed, but not on some or all lower speeds. This is because the blower resistor is bypassed on the highest speed. You say your fan is intermittent on the highest speed, so it's unlikely to be the blower resistor.
If you have a "display" on your climate control (versus three large rotary knobs and no display), then your car also has something called a "Final Stage Unit" which is an electronic part that the system uses to change the motor speed. You may not even have a blower resistor in this case.
It is possible that the motor itself is bad, but generally these motors fail by becoming noisy, or they sieze up, or die altogether. They don't typically start and stop randomly. However, you can test this by connecting a test light or voltmeter to the motor when the problem is occurring. If there's 12vdc there but the motor isn't running, then your motor is bad. If there is no power there when there should be (i.e. fan is turned on), then the problem is elsewhere.
Or you can take a gamble and replace the final stage unit. Google "E36 Final Stage Unit" and you will find step by step procedures.
3/26/2017 1:45:03 PM •
1996 BMW 318
•
385 views • 1 helpful votes
I would like to know the coolant capacity on a 1996 bmw 318ti
Engine lubricant oil capacity:
4 liter / 4.2 U.S. qt / 3.5 imp. qt
with filter change
Engine coolant capacity:
6.5 liter / 6.9 U.S. qt / 5.7 imp. qt
Fuel tank capacity:
65 liter / 17.2 U.S. gal / 14.3 imp. gal
Transmission oil capacity:
1 liter / 1.1 U.S. qt / .9 imp. qt
Final drive oil capacity:
1.1 liter / 1.2 U.S. qt / 1 imp. qt
Battery capacity (Ah):
50
Spark plugs:
Bosch F7LDCR, NGK BKR6EK
3/3/2015 10:56:57 PM •
1996 BMW 318
•
549 views • 0 helpful votes
How the position of the top dead center on the M43 engine
Take off the upper timing cover and disconnect the battery now put a socket on the crankshaft but and rotate engine in direction of travel . there's a mark on the crankshaft pulley and marks on the camshaft sprockets that will be at the top when you are at TDC. That's the basics. Remove spark plugs to ease rotating the crankshaft. Hope that helps
4/21/2014 4:30:11 PM •
1996 BMW 318
•
454 views • 0 helpful votes
My 95bmw 318is doesn't like to start back up once it's warmed up and you turn it off. Once it cools off it starts up first try. What do I have to change?
Well, I think I've finally won my 'No Start When Hot' battle!! After pulling my hair out for months, I ended up using a combination of the pointers listed above.
I had already cleaned the battery terminals, starter terminals, terminals at the alternator, and especially the ground connection from the engine block to the engine mount support arm to the chassis. Even after trying two other used (but good condition) starters, I had still been unsuccessful in resolving the issue.
The final two things that I believe did the trick were:
1. I finally remembered/realized that the positive cable from the battery first goes into and out of the B+ jumper box before going on to the starter. Since, I hadn't touched it yet, I dismantled it and took wire brushes to all four connections (MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!!!)
2. Also, I got two big 'U.S. quarter sized' washers and placed one in between each of the starter lobes and the transmission bell housing in order to provide just a fraction more clearance to the flywheel (This is what I believe the main problem was in my case - mechanical clearance just as stated in one of the previous posts)! I finally came to believe this theory more and more because in order to start my car, sometimes if I rolled it just a few inches in neutral and then dropped the clutch in gear, I would then be able to take the car back out of gear and get it to start (almost as if the flywheel had to move just a tad bit to the right position for the starter to engage more easily).
It's now almost mid-August and I still haven't had any problems from the 'original' starter after approx. 7 months!!
Additional advice: Stick with Bosch starters!!
...Hope this helps someone else out there..
5/31/2014 4:45:03 PM •
1996 BMW 318
•
68 views • 0 helpful votes
Not finding what you are looking for?