20 Most Recent 1992 BMW 7 Series Questions & Answers

The usual culprit is the water pump. If you have gone 175k without a new one that is almost amazing; I replaced the one on my 325xi at about 135k. If you are a DIYer, do a youtube search on replacing the pump on a '92 735 to see if you want to take it on. It was super easy on my '02 325. If you can reach the pulley and the pump is bad, you can probably wiggle it. If it moves at all the pump is bad. You might need to go so far as to remove the belts to check. If the pulley is plastic then replace it with the pump as it will likely have a few craks (sic - correct spelling is considered profanity on this site) and may even break taking it off the old pump. I've had good luck with both FCP Euro and Pelican Parts for both quality and prices on parts. One other thing, shortly after replacing my pump I developed a crak (sic) in the expansion tank which will also leak coolant (and cause overheating if you don't keep your radiator topped off) so check that too, maybe even first. Replacing the tank was actually more difficult because after undoing the hoses the tank did not want to pop out but it would be of a different design on your car.

i've had this same issue. while you have your key in the drivers side door, with it turned to the unlock position...rapidly lift on handle up and down. after about 10-15 times the door will unlock

What happens when you try to start it? Do you get any sounds? Have you checked the condition of the battery? If your battery is more than 8 years old it probably doesn't have enough power to crank the engine (but all your other accessories probably work)

Wiring issues is what is sounds like. I also own a 1992 735i Mine was because of a bad ground wire. BMW built the locks to be able to "deadbolt" you can only emergency unlock (when you have no power to the doors, or dead battery) on the passenger side. Also make sure you have a new battery. Or a decent one. Bosch or Interstate.

It's a sealed system so there is no dip stick. See this tutorial for more information:http://blog.bavauto.com/2469/bmw-automatic-transmission-fluid-change-e36-a4s-310r-4l30e/

I would suggest REDLINE D4 ATF automatic fluid. Here is a good tutorial:http://blog.bavauto.com/2469/bmw-automatic-transmission-fluid-change-e36-a4s-310r-4l30e/

possible due to mileage on vehicle, you may need to service your transmission. if fluid is real dark in color, do not service transmission.lube guard is a supplier that makes and treatment for this problem, which is called shutter fix. torque converter clutch is causing this problem when transmission goes into lock up. let me know if you need additional information

If your car is an automatic there would be lines from the transmission to the rad to cool the transmision fluid. Over time the lines inside the rad have been known to corrode and start leaking. This would put oil in your coolant. You would be looking for small steel lines going in and out that would trace back to the transmission. Hope this helps.

Most common problem is a failing brake light switch. The cruise control disengages when you touch the brake, and it is designed to fail to the "cruise off" mode (for obvious reasons).
The switch should be on the forward side of your brake pedal arm. They are usually a bear to get to unless you have a helper with very small hands. You may have to crush the old one to bits with a pliers to get it out, That is the normal procedure.
If you have one of those rare '92s that came with a manual transmission, you have a similar switch on the clutch pedal arm. That may be the one that has failed.
There are, of course, many other parts that can fail, but if the mechanical parts under the hood look OK, and everything is plugged in properly, the brake light switch is the first suspect.

You will have to pull the radio out of the dash far enough to get the serial number. The dealer can look up the code, given the radio serial number. If they want to charge you for this service, find a different dealer.

i lke to no my self

If you can smell it then it's leaking or overflowing from reservoir. The dash light on most cars isn't for the radiator itself but the coolant reservoir telling you it's empty. Which could be the case if coolant is leaking and each time it cools it sucks more out of the reservoir until empty and then you end up with air pockets in the radiator which will overheat the car.

Your 7 Series has an R12 system. R12 is no longer in use. To convert your system it will cost you anywhere from $800-$1200. Depending on location, it may be more or less.