20 Most Recent 1991 BMW 3 Series Questions & Answers

www.reliable-store.com this site will also help you in this

Brakes fail due to low fluid or air in the lines (usually from low fluid). The airbags and coolant are not related to the brakes. Have you hit some thing ? A wiring problem could affect all three, possibly a common ground between the three ? but you will need a "competent" tech to look at it.

Something is draining the battery. Is there a light on in the trunk? See if you trunk is fully closed and the light is going off, or remove the bulb and see if that helps.

Remove dash trim around the cluster to access the screws holding in the cluster. on back side of cluster should be the blade type bulbs.

check the cam lobes are ok. If damaged then there will be noise and low performance

blown or clogged oil pump. The tapping noise may be a bearing or lifter, I would not run it until problem is fixed, you could blow a piston rod out the side of your engine. check the oil pump to see if is operating. if not, replace.

Could be speed sensor on transmission

There could be a short in the plug try the plug somewhere else first ever have mice if it ever sat

Yeah its a hydrolic lifter or the big end bearing (hopefully the hydrolic lifter as its much cheaper to fix) does the ticking go away after 5,000 rpm?

Try jump starting, see if it starts then. Lights, radio, etc.. don't draw nearly the amps that your starter does. Batteries don't always give warning when then decide to "go south". If you can get it started by jump starting, stop by a local Autozone, Advance, etc.. auto parts store and have them do a charging system test and to load test your battery. They offer this service for FREE
Another Note: When was timing belt last replaced? If it's a 325 of that year it should be done every 60k (If it's 318 ignore the above belt issue)

is it an auto ? if so then check level of oil , if oil ok then modulator pipe for leaks .

bulbs behind the gauge cluster most likely need to be replaced....

Likely, the plugs weren't cross threaded but I'll bet that anti-seize compound wasn't used. Plugs are not replaced as often as they once were and the dis-similar metals tend to corrode and bind so you end up tearing the threads out when you remove them. (doesn't matter now, result is the same). You can use heli-coils to do the repair...likely you can have them shipped if you buy them from an on-line source. Only problem is that you may not have enough room to actually do the install. As far as reliability, heli-coils will hold up indefinitely...Used them as routine on 7,000 hp fuel engines having very high cylinder pressures and never had one fail.
If you can get to them, you need to put a vacuum nozzle near the holes as you are drilling.(Removing them, they either will come out with the threads damaged or snap off....need to be drilled to accept the coil so that doesn't matter either) That should prevent most of the debris from entering the cylinders. Once drilled out and tapped, crank the engine over (ignition disabled) to blow any that did get in there out.
Other than removing / replacing the head, that's your only real option. And, of course, after making the repair, use anti seize compound so it dosen't happen again!!!
Good luck!!

low batery starting power is they problem

what is 320 ( j )

plenty of grease and push. if it still doesnt go on then trim the rubber with a stanley blade, have had to do this a few times for it to go on

Check for blown fuse or bad pump relay. If both are good, check for power at the pump itself. If present, the pump requires replacement. Hope this helps!

if its all 4 lights or more than one (indicators) not working at the same time then you have simply blown a fuse just replace the fuse (they cost about 3 bucks for a whole packet of them)