20 Most Recent 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Easy DIY is to change all fuel, air, and oil filters, do full tune-up, and change ignition cables, too. See if problem goes away. Take a look at coil, too, those cars have a known coil issue and it needs replacement every 25,000 miles

A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. is there any change in the drivabilty ?

One of your wheel speed sensors is bad

The dealer is the only one !

No, it may not be easy to fix? But it would be very hard to diagnose something that odd and electrical. For example, it could be in the main RF receiver constantly activating the solenoids. But it could also be an adjustment of a solenoid and there are 5 of them. But what I would suggest is to remove all 5 interior door panels, (remember the back hatch). And then try the lock on the fob. If one seems to stay on or not go on, such as shorting out, then quickly remove the wire from the offending solenoid. Be prepared also to remove the battery cable if you have to. That can active the radio security though, if you don't know the code. And if there is a short, you can tell with a battery cable off, by putting a test light between the cable end and the battery post. A volt meter will not work because there are several things, like the clock, radio backup, emission system, etc, that will always draw 12 volts. But they draw very little current, so will not brightly light up a test bulb.

Engine light on? Pull codes and go from there. Could be bad O2 sensors, bad MAF sensor, intake system leak, stuck open injectors, etc. If there are codes that will help.

It may also be the temperature sensor. Not knowing your model, if it uses both a belt driven and electric fan, the electric fan (or its sensor) may have failed. Turn on the AC to see if the electric fan will cycle as it should since this is used (in most vehicles) for engine cooling if the main fan isn't adequate whether AC is in use or not. On high mileage engines if distilled water was not used instead of tap water (along with coolant), the radiator core can eventually become clogged with calcium deposits. .

ice is melting

fan relay control module and replace both high and low speed fans. and thats normal for the fans to come on with the a/c on thats what cools the ac condenser

Not the converters. But check them to see if there is nothing in them. I've seen the converters blow apart and clog the muffler. Have the codes read.

Built into the valve cover

Most likely an intermittent MAF (mass air flow) sensor, or possibly a bad turbo (wastegate) pod.

The indicates that the Turbocharger is over boosting the engine. If the code is correct and not failed sensor you can get engine damage from this condition. Have the dealer test it asap.

You might check your transmission mounts; you have an upper "pendulum" mount, and a "dog-bone" mount underneath.

should be under your dash on driver side by your gas pedel

$400 to $600

Hi. this is normally the break light switch.

Check the handbrake (e-brake) switch, move the handle up and down vigorously. If the cables are sticking, the handle may not go all the way down, sending the signal that the e-brake is still engaged.

it is more than likely airlocked bleed air from system or open heater core pipe make sure heater core is full

There's a relay on the brake pedal arm that actuates when you press the brake pedal. This releases the lock on the shifter, so you can shift out of Park. VW's are notorious for having issues with this relay. Stick your head down by the brake pedal and you'll see where the pedal arm hits the relay. It's more than likely stuck, and may not need to be replaced. I'm guess you probably have no brake lights either...