20 Most Recent 1999 Nissan Pathfinder - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I presume you meant to write emission test . There will be a certain type of emission that is too high. The test result will tell you which that is. But the first thing to do is have the computer scanned for trouble codes...and start fixing what the computer recognizes as a fault...... you will need expert help for this unless you buy yourself a scanner tool etc.

I have a 1999 TERRANO QD32ETI engine and the problem which the local agents and private mechanics cannot solve is that when it's on the highways the engine performs well; that is it accelerates perfectly. However, when the vehicle comes to a dead stop, and you go for a quick take off the engine cuts out; it restarts quickly; now,when you make a slow acceleration after stopping the engine does not stall, but this can be a dangerous situation when crossing traffic on the highway or moving off from the traffic lights. We checked the computer, fuel pump and the injectors; our opinions differ and somehow we feel the problem may be the fuel pump. We would appreciate your comments. Our many thanks for your kind assistance. Thanks Tony.

Auto or manual trans?

Which is your vehicle, a 1995 or a 1999, what engine does it have, and what makes you think it needs replacing? Petrol or diesel?

Take old ones out, gap new ones, put new ones in.

Tranny filter is internal, more or less a screen plus, drop the pan to find it.

Please don't hurt more walls! Just kidding..what a problem. If you have the correct sensor installed and it is working correctly (check with multimeter for change in resistance when cold, warm, hot) then the signal getting to the computer must be getting scrambled in some way. Check the wire connection where you clip it onto the sensor. Use a multi meter and check for continuity there and back further along the wire. if you can't trace the wire all the way to the computer, you may have to do a bodge job..rig a wire into the cab with an on off switch. Only to be used when the engine is warm..flick switch to off, start truck, flick switch back to reengage sensor....... think of it as an unusual theft deterrent !

Could be a bad distributor itself.

Check the transmission fluid level and quality if all is well then I won't suggest new oil pump and valve body

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/el.pdf start there, you can get rid of the el.pdf to see more options to this Factory Service Manual credit goes to Greg for this awesome resource!

You must let your vehicle come up to temperature before having the test done. Run at highway speed for 15-20 minutes before hand. If that doesn't get you, maybe time for a new O2 Sensor/catalytic converter.

A steering wheel is not an easy job. First remove the battery earth cable. Be very careful that you don't activate the airbag while you're working. Remove the screws that hold the center pad to the steering wheel from the back of the steering wheel. Slowly move the airbag out and undo the wires.Now the steering wheel shaft should be exposed with the nut that holds the wheel in place. Loosen the nut but do not remove it completely, leave it on the shaft. This is the difficult bit. Grab hold of the steering wheel and pull real hard on it until it moves up against the nut. It might feel as if you are going to break the wheel, but it is not easy to do. Just keep at it until it comes loose. Now remove the nut completely and pull the steering wheel out.

a bad cv joint inner part there 3 ball bearing sliding in 3 chanel 1 of the chanel got a bump in it the ball get stuck in it and create wobbling hope this help fixya our post thanks pierre

try locking and unlocking doors?

Now spark plugs last a very long time manufacturers are confident in hiding them away behind other stuff that has to be painstakingly unbolted, unclipped or generally removed for access. Even standard spark plugs are good for a couple of years of average driving and most will manage 30 or 40,000 miles. The last couple of services I did I had to consider whether replacement was advisable at between 60 and 70,000 miles. Even studying the electrodes through a powerful magnifier didn't show any reason to change them. I did change them because the internal suppressor resistor does tend to wear out electrically. Like a lot of people I don't think it is natural or advisable to leave spark plugs for that length of time so mostly I am taking them out, looking at them and then putting them back with some anti-seize on the threads and silicone grease on the boots and terminals. Plug spanners are out these days and sometimes it is two extension bars, the ratchet, the socket and a couple of universal joints that are needed to service the plugs after moving a lot of other rubbish and then sometimes even having to lay across the engine...

I assume you are talking about the door card, or cardboard trim cover inside the door. Step 1, remove all screws. There will be one screw holding down the handle trim plate. Pull back the handle and check carefully. If your car has manually operated windows, you have to remove the window winder handle. Push the card in around the handle trim to expose the handle stem. There is a clip that holds the handle in place which you have to "fish" out with a thinnish length of wire. Be careful, if this clip gets lost, which it easily does, it is difficult to replace. If your car has electric windows, the switch should come off with the card, no problem. There might also be one or two screws at the bottom of the door card holding down the corners. Step 2, OK, screws all removed. Now, very carefully, insert a flat screwdriver, the bigger the better, in between the card and the the door. Carefully move the screwdriver in any direction until it jams up against the plastic clip that holds the card onto the door, and force the clip out. It is a good idea to place a wad of cloth between the screwdriver and the metal of the door to prevent damage to the paint. Once the clip pops, it becomes easier to pop the next one and then the next and so on. There should be at least eight or ten plastic clips that hold the card down, and if you can get them all out without breaking one, you are extremely lucky. Step 3. Carefully (see how often I use this word) lift the card upward to unhook it from the top edge of the door. It might be necessary to unhook the door handle pull rods before removing the card. This is done by unhooking the plastic hooks that retain the rods. It's very easy to unhook, much more difficult to get back in place. Have fun.

if you have not taken it to the dealership do so because entering the codes is rather tricky if you do not know what you are doing

the brake light switch will work without the key in the ignition if you push on the brake pedal, its just the way its designed. if you were to test the switch with a test light one wire is always powered up and the second wire is only powered when the brake pedal is pushes to activate the switch. if you test both wires without pushing the pedal I think you will find you have power on both wires indicating the brake switch has shorted and is working all the time. replace the brake switch.

broke or corroded wire. I have seen bad corrosion on the wires that plug into the black box under the hood that holds the fuses and relays.you have to remove the box and all the wires to clean it properly.Not a fun job. you can get a can of electrical contact cleaner and pull the fuses and relays and spray it real good. a can of coke will work also.