20 Most Recent 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander Questions & Answers

Crank shaft torque

Are you sure the computer is the fault ? they come programed you will need make year and vin number manual and auto are not the same . I would have it checked out at a good repair shop , fitting a new ECU and finding that is not the fault would be costly .

Because your looking for a relay.

There's no simple answer here, but I've got a real answer and it's not hard. You'll just have to remove whatever is in the way in order to change the line. Check out a YouTube video as they are most helpful when you are dealing with stuff like this. You'll get it!

Your local Mitsubishi dealer will give this to you for free

The obvious would be fuses.

I wouldn't thing so.

you need service and repair manual to do the torque setting so go to the given link and get the manual http://toolsnyou.com/

I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew who is a full time mechanic uses it most of the times, and all mechanics look up to manuals. It's very easy he gets it from. www.reliable-store.com

If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus i know a website that sells very cheap but very very good manuals online, without expiry i.e. for lifetime. www.reliable-store.com

timing belts are toothed belts and do not slip next if it was to get out of time it would never start so run the fault codes and check for problem crank/cam position sensors

p0134 - Bad O2 Sensor or faulty sensor wiring p0132 - Bad O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) p0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient p0113 - Defective intake air temperature sensor/ clogged air filter/ faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. p0101 - Vacuum leak/ defective MAF sensor/ damaged intake manifold gasket p0107 - Faulty Barometric Pressure sensor or its wiring system p0758 - Low transmission fluid/ Dirty transmission fluid/ Shift Solenoid B wiring problem or its valve p0753 - Low transmission fluid/ Dirty transmission fluid/ Shift Solenoid A wiring problem or its valve p0736 - Transmission problem/ Low transmission fluid/ Dirty transmission fluid/ Shift Solenoid wiring problem or its valve/ Transmission hydraulic control circuit p0735 - Transmission problem/ Low transmission fluid/ Dirty transmission fluid/ Shift Solenoid wiring problem or its valve/ Transmission hydraulic control circuit p0732 - Transmission problem/ Low transmission fluid/ Dirty transmission fluid/ Shift Solenoid wiring problem or its valve/ Transmission hydraulic control circuit p0720 - Damaged speed sensor/ its harness/ connector

possible that the sensor is loose and hitting on the rotor check for loose / worn timing chains and hydraulic adjusters

"...makes a rumbling sound." Since you changed the head gasket, I suspect that you did not align the balance shafts correctly. There is a specific and mandatory sequence to setting up the 4G64 timing belts so the lower (oil pump) and upper balance shafts are correctly synced. Get it wrong and the engine vibrates, often around 2500 rpm and higher. You will have to set the engine to Top Dead Center, pull the cam covers off again, disconnect the tensioners, remove the belts, and realign the balance shafts correctly.

Replace heater/ac control assembly

According to your words, I strongly believe you do have a problem with your transmission.to what you have up to now on driving and locked to a gear means there is a fault and the gear box gets into a Safe Mode to allow you go to a garage for inspection and repair. On by switching off and on driving is not the correct procedure because having that means you do clear the fault code (s) and run for awhile and back to the beginning. My skills advise just visit a qualified garage to use a Scanner in order to get the faults and repair.

there is a wire that is taken from the battery and run in insulation around the the vehicle to ports that uses live connection. the insulation on one of the lines may be broken and it making connection with the body metal of the car, bridging the ground. this is why youa re getting shocked. the problem needs some inspection of the wiring system all around, especially from the music and igntion wires to find the broken insulaton. the shifting of the gears in the =+/- mode is probably due to transmisson lubrication and other mishaps.

I have an '04 Outlander and the wires on the manual shift switch are: Black - top Blue - center Red - bottom I used small heat shrink tubing on each solder joint to provide better mechanical support and prevent future breaking.