Top 20 2002 Mazda Protege Questions & Answers

Sounds to me the hazard switch is the trouble.

Ignition module probably at fault. Shuts down when hot, runs after cooling off.

Misfire codes can be caused by alot of things ;bad ring in engine. bad ignition coil .bad sparkplug . bad sparkplug wires. bad map sensor (if equipt). to get a better idea you of your situation,you might want to post the make ,model ,year and mileage of vehicle and also the check engine code light codes.

Sounds like leaky valve seals.If its gone in 30 seconds don't worry about it.

Front right and rear right are on a different circuit than the left front an left rear. Locate the Flasher control module behind dash. With key in RUN position check for pulsing battery voltage on the Green/white wire coming out of the flasher control module electrical connector. If no battery voltage, check for battery voltage coming into the flasher from the turn signal switch on the white/red wire. Left turn input is on the white/black wire. If not battery voltage on white/red, but voltage on white/black when turning left, then the turn signal switch is bad

What make, model, year and engine size?

The master should always be replaced with the slave.

Under the car, check the linkage arm. It may be loose or out of adjustment.

run the fault codes put a couple of cans of quality injector cleaner in the tank as it is a possible dirty injector problem or low fuel pressure problem

I'd first check the gas to see if you may have water in it. It may also be a simple as a tune up or new plugs/wires.

No, you will have open valves when the timing marks are aligned. This will create spring pressure and will want to move the cams to a neutral position. This is why you need the retaining tool to hold the cams in the proper location while the belt is replaced.

You may need to replace your motor in the door. I'm not sure, but I believe that is where the automatic stop position sensor is. You may be able to testing it, but a new motor on eBay is probably $10, maybe $15 may want to verify this before you buy the motor. It's been a while I worked on one of those

The smell of hydrogen sulphide used to be a side effect of catalysed engines before low-sulphur oils and fuels replaced the old-fashioned stuff. The sulphur smell could be significant and mean either you have some dodgy fuel or maybe the engine is has too much fuel going through it and if it is misfiring there will be unburned fuel entering the cat. Most acceleration misfires are caused by ignition faults so I suggest you begin your fault-finding by ensuring the plugs are good and the spark each receives is a powerful quality spark.

tensioner

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It's not a fuse, your park lamps/tail lamps front and rear all get voltage from the same source. In the diagram, top wire is voltage bottom wire is ground. May be a problem with wiring circuit, either voltage or ground. Did you try pushing on the bulb to see if it would lite up, if it does, something wrong with bulb socket.

Why won't??

Without knowing the make model and year of the vehicle, I can't really help much other than, some of the vehicles out there have a blower motor resistor that is usually located near the blower motor or sometimes near the controls. This would cause the heater to fail in blowing heat into the vehicle. If you can hear the fan blowing and it is able to change speed, the resistor would not be the problem. You can also test and/or replace the heater relay to see if this works for you. Short of those suggestions, you may have a plugged heater core which would require replacement. Seek a professional to do this job for you.

Google P1290 with your vehicle make and model. It will give you the information you are seeking. The Code "P1290" is Different for different vehicles. So make sure you enter the 'make and model' you received this code from.

Spotlights or more correctly auxilliary driving lights should be fitted in accordance with prevailing construction and use regulations that mostly require such lights to be fitted above the bumper line and not be placed too close together. They should be aimed as if they are headlights and be wired so they only illuminate when main or high headlamp beam is selected. The lamps should be supplied with a fused supply direct from the vehicle battery and switched by a good quality relay with a current rating substantially more than the current drawn by the lamps. Use a heavier gauge of cable than required for both the supply and ground. Keep the wires sensibly short and neat so it looks like they are meant to be there. The switching supply is taken from any convenient point in the supply to either headlamp main beam. These days that small task is not easy and will usually require splicing into the cable once the correct wire has been identified using a circuit diagram and/or a test lamp. Carefully remove half an inch of insulation from the headlight supply cable and then wrap the conductor of the relay wire around it several times, secure with solder and then carefully and neatly waterproof and insulate the splice with pvc tape and secure it from unwinding over the coming years with a tiny nylon cable tie. Good luck!