20 Most Recent 2001 Mazda 626 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You have to partially unscrew the bolt in the center, that's holding the pulley to the crankshaft. Then, you have to use a puller to safely pull, without damaging, the pulley off the crankshaft. When it gets pulled away, off the crankshaft, remove the puller, unbolt the center bolt all the way and take the pulley out.

sounds like it to me since everything else is good

The auto vacum is not resetting the tuning to the pump. So you will require a good trim up with calibration to set the idle and A/C idle and with the clutch depressed to be set with corrrect tuning and timing.

It sounds more like a clutch problem than tranny. You can try the oil in there, but I think the clutch is shot. Check the fluid in the clutch master and make sure it is working right, no slipping, crunching, grinding, the jerking sounds like oil on the clutch. Check it out.

check the connections to the battery. Sometimes this is the only problem from corrosion on the battery terminals

If it was an itermittent connection problem,It could be fixed by cleaning the connections and making sure they are all tight, This sounds like the alternator is beginning to fail and I would take it and have the alternator tested which can be done free at most auto part stores.

OK, the seal at the firewall has deteriorated to the point that it leaks into the cabin and there are a couple of things that can be done to fix this.

First, try to find the 'weep' holes in the firewall and blow them out so that water can drain.

Second, try to get some foam in a can and spray it up against juncture between the firewall and the plastic pan that is leaking.

This is a common problem.

NO ,,JUST THE LUG NUTS

100 psi? Holy ****!!! Drain about 95% of that out. Your can should only hold 1.5 to 3 lbs max or about 2 cans of freon. Your causing the compressor to push more than it can handle. Thats why your blowing fues.

Could be the shift cable. Mine broke off a while back and it would not shift into any gear. AAMCO was going to charge me $150 to fix it, but I fixed it myself. The connection at the transmission is on the drivers side of the transmission right below and to the rear of the air filter housing. I would guess it could be stuck in neutral for some reason (maybe last gear it passed through before it broke) but mine was stuck in park. It may not be the problem, but it's a simple solution that's worth looking into.

either relay or fan is bad

that is bollox,the dealer has 30 mins to recalibrate the system or it will shut down and need all he said,is he for real a mazda dealer.........or are you rich looking????? get it to another dealer,ask them to get 2 keys and recalibrate(assuming the first dealer has not caused a meltdown of the system.....)the problem you may have is they may not know about the 30 min rule...its to stop thieves from changing keys on stolen cars.......

if you have the 4 cylinder engine, the thermostat is located in the thermostat housing on the engine, which is attached to the bottom hose of the radiator. drain the coolant into a clean receptical so you can reuse it, if you don't want to buy new coolant. 2 bolts remove the housing. remove the bolts and if the housing is stuck, give it a couple of taps with a handle of a hammer. remove the thermostat and replace, ensuring the notch in the gasket is in the correct position at the top of the inlet hole the new thermostat should have a jiggle pin on the mounting surface that should be aligned to the notch on the gasket. this is necessary to remove air from the system. replace the housing and tighten the bolts to 20 lbs of torque, which is not much. on v6 engines first remove the coolant pipe bolts and pull the pipe from the housing, then remove the housing.
when filling, the top hose must be squeezed to remove air. when the radiator appears full, slowly squeeze the top hose tp expel air. continue this procedure until no bubbles are present. replace cap and fill reservoir 1/2 full. run the car to operating temp and turn the heater on high. if no heat, air is trapped. drive the car to help expel the air. the heater will get hot. park the car and let cool completely. check the radiator and re-fill if necessary. repeat if needed

should be to the lower left of the steering wheel and if you have owbers manual this will also assist you in the correct fuse location.

could be fuel pump or filter or no spark. What kind of car and what year and how many miles?

Take it to Auto-zone or something similar, they will bring out the diagnostic tool, connect and pull the codes for free. Could be as simple as you didn't tighten the gas cap tight enough..