20 Most Recent 1995 GMC Sierra C1500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

there are several sensors including the VSS, TCM, vacuum actuator oil pressure and ECM the idea is to read the fault codes to show the problem units

You should be able the get this from any parts store. They are very good about helping out with that.

I would get to an exhaust shop and have them check your catalytic converter.

This is for one with intermittant wipers.

Your "knock sensor" kicks in??? That means there must be a knock detected and the engine is doing what it is supposed to do. How do you know your timing is 4-6 degrees at 60 mph?

You can't. Replace the regulator. Been there , done that. They don't last.

Backfiring is usually associated with a lean condition. Is fuel pressure correct? Is this vehicle TBI and are both injectors working properly? If timing related it should spark rattle under load and the timing would be way out and not run/start well at idle

a known problem with GM wiper motors were the circuit boards which may be replaced seperate on some models. also would cause what we call a park issue meaning not stopping at bottom of the windshield. hope this helps.

Need to verify air, fuel, ignition, and computer codes. Is there a fuse blown or bad wire connection on battery, alternator, or grounds to frame? For TBI ( Throttle Body Injection ) systems, is the check engine or Service Engine Soon light on or had come on? That will most of the time tell you by the code what electrical computer sensor or component is faulty. I recommend the Haynes Repair Manual for your specific year range of make and model. There are more trouble shooting helps and test with computer codes too. When there are no codes in computer, check the MAP sensor vacuum line and connector; TPS sensor; distributor cap and rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the spray pattern from the TBI injectors ( when engine is running ). When was the last time the fuel filter ( usually mounted on the inside of the driver's side frame rail ) was changed? I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/walter_a8cdba916b296f7a

Replace ballast resistor.

on opposite side of fuel pump relay .there the relay and fusible link then at the end there is a small block it contains the fuse 20 amp

It looks like you have a bad ground for turn signal front and rear have a separate ground headlight draw current look for good ground too hope it help

problem could be the coolant sensor defect or a vacuum leak or IAC valve drag or stuck hope it help

Go to LMC late model cars an trucks. They have all the parts for your truck with diagrams. Down load the correct catalog an you can see all that is needed. As well you can go to this link an read this article about it on an older truck. I understand they are simular in design. http://67-72chevytrucks.comvboard/showthread.php?+=187229

That could be a perfect reason to take it back to the shop where it was just repaired for repeat service. Either that or you spun out in the mud.

I would say it is yourTBI (throttle body injection)carburetor. Check fuel filters; there should be two. One on the carburetor and another on the frame under the passenger side. The other thing to check is your air flow sensor. It is on the intake hose to the carburetor if it has one. You can buy a spray to clean it out. I have had trouble with the whole carburetor there are injectors and they sometimes just stop working. If you have another used one try changing it out. I would just try to replace them instead of trying to fix one. There are three or four on the TBI and are easy to change out, or just change the whole TBI unit, I don't think they are very expensive for a used one. There is another possibility and that is the fuel pump. It is inside your fuel tank. Check your fuel pressure it should run between 35-50LBs depending on the year. That will give you an idea of what your fuel pump is doing. Check your TPS (throttle position sensor) on the carburetor and make sure it is working good.; easy thing to take off and check with an OHM meter. Good luck

Is this a front seal or rear? If it is the front seal you would have to drop the transmission out to replace. Once down and out you can use a small flat head screw driver to get the old one out and then dry it up as good as you can. Place the new seal in place and then tap around it in a clock wise circle until it is all seated. If it is the rear seal you can just drop the drive shaft and then same as the front. Take a small flat head screw driver and remove the old one and then dry it off and clean it as clean as possible. Place the new one in place and press it in as far as you can. Once it is in as far as you can push it then take a small hammer and tap it clock wise until it all the way seated. When pushing it with your fingers make sure that it stays straight or it will leak as well as the old one !

Auto Glass Companies come to your home or business Don't need to know about the kids Why are they always part of vehicle problems

Could be throttle position sensor