20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

With a single exhaust, one in each y-pipe leg, one for each bank. Sensor 1 bank 1, sensor 1 bank 2. Sensor 2 should be after the cat. Sorry, I don't have decent picture.

you start by having the fault codes read The ECM records all faulty sensors and by reading the codes you save money by not replacing perfectly good parts At this point it indicates a problem with the EVAP system that is not venting the tank properly but that is a guess from your statement

That would be an indication that the system is low on refrigerant. Jumpering the low pressure connector is a GREAT way to destroy the compressor. Compressor oil is circulated with refrigerant. When low on refrigerant and jumpering, you're running the compressor without oil http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/recharged-car-ac-not-blowing-cold/

Crank sensor is primarily for the spark and the cam sensor is for fuel management, crank/cam correlation for misfire purposes I would also change the wires.

Possibly plugged air filter or fuel filter/low fuel pressure or plugged catalytic converter on the exhaust.An engine is an air pump,any restriction will slow it down.

At the moment, I'm only talking about starter relay. The starter relay has two sides, the load side and control side. The load side is that line with arrow, terminal 30 and 87, terminal 30 is hot all the time, plus, see that fuse on the load side. If you unplug the starter relay, key in the on position, on position is where dash lites come on, Then use jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87, at the least it should crank the starter motor and it might start. If you try that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. If you get a reaction, the problem should be on control side of starter relay, right side in the picture. Terminal 85 and 86, the control side needs voltage and ground. You can see crank fuse, goes hot with key in the crank position, not only check fuse check for voltage on fuse circuit. As you can see, on the control side the neutral or clutch switch, depending on the tranny, is involved The ground for the control side is a chassis ground. As far as the fuel pump, other than the initial prime, fuel pump will not run w/o rpm signal, you have to crank it to get rpm signal.

Not easy to find - a real good video is at YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeBwrjFYq7M).

if the new arm is not the same as the old arm , then it is not the right unit take the vehicle to a front end steering specialist shop for a proper diagnosis of the problem

Hi, the PCM is under the air filter assembly.

1. Using a scan tool, retrieve the percentage of remaining engine oil and the remaining automatic transmission fluid life. Record the remaining engine oil and the remaining automatic transmission fluid life.
2. Turn OFF the ignition.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Remove the screw retaining the intake air duct/resonator (3) to the PCM housing.
5. Unsnap the air filter housing clamps on top of the air cleaner housing assembly.
6. Pull the intake air duct/resonator assembly (2) up enough to remove the air cleaner cover (3) and the PCM.
7. Slide the air cleaner element assembly toward the fender to separate the air cleaner element assembly from the air inlet assembly.
8. Loosen the PCM connector attaching bolts.
9. Disconnect both PCM connectors.
10. Remove the PCM (1). NOTE If the PCM is being programmed using the Off-Board method, perform the programming before continuing with the steps listed below. Refer to the Off-Board procedure in Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Programming.

The first thing I do is spray ether in mass air flow manifold and see if it starts. If it starts with ether I know I have a fuel delivery problem. The PCM providing less than 12 volts to the fuel pump results in low discharge pressure. You could also have a bad pressure regulator or a clogged fuel filter.

not sure if this is your problem or not but in my blazer my gauges would just start going crazy at random times and sometimes the my speed would be accurate and other times it would be 10 mph off and the odometer and prnd123 would work sometimes and other times they wouldn't. after a lot of trying things I finally found the solder on the gauge cluster broke loose specifically at the PRND123 or the odometer I don't remember witch. I had to look at it under a magnifying glass and I could see some very slight movement after I soldered it back together it has been working great and I have not had any other problems with it. hope this helps you out.

Yes, you need a brake job or clean the brake pads by taking off the tires, then the drums, wipe the inside of the drums of dirt, wipe the brakes off, and reassemble.

clogged catalytic converter, replace.

run the fault codes to find the problem sensor could be TCM, TR sensor or VSS sensor

Here's a link to your code P0306. P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

does sound like lifters to me which most can be adjusted

Follow the top and bottom radiator hoses. Goes goes to the thermostat in a round about way which is right on the top of engine behind the EGR valve. Bottom hose goes right to the waterpump, easy access from underneath. The temperature sensor is located on drivers side mid engine. Look through drivers tire wheel well, you can see the sensor, brass fitting. A note, the top hose where it's attached to the thermostat is metal....tends to rust out, just get a new one and snake it back through there.