Top 20 2000 BMW Z3 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

hose off somewhere follow all vac hoses from manifold to destinations and make sure they are not broken/cracked and are connected

headlights dont move and if you are talking the switch inside i suggest you get a left hand drive wire harness.

hi.
the side light and the high beam will be different bulbs. they may appear to be the same, but if you look carefully, there is a smaller bulb, normally just below the main bulb. the sidelight will usually be a small 5watt bulb where the main beam bulb will be much larger, and anywhere between 45 and 65 watts. look for the smaller bulb and replace that first..

The seat belt when this happens , the belt will need to be replaced, it is locked inside,

Unsnap the pillar cover, take out a fold in the belt, and carefully snapped cover back on, making sure rubber trim covers the edge.

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Just pry open the b pillar. You'll see 2 things a bolt up top and the actual seatbelt locking thing.. Just unbolt the top bolt to get some "SLACK" on the belt. Retract it gently then the locking mechanism should release.

Be very gentle with the top trim piece, it comes off ok but on one end the thin plastic lip gets cracked and breaks a little where it sits. ---------- Click this below for more details:--- http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/seat-belt-stuck-in-back-position-on-bmw.html ---------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Most likely scenario is you need to replace the fan resistor. This is common on BMWs of this age.

Your best bet for a step by step procedure will be on an owners forum like www.bimmerforums.com - sites like that usually have a lot of photo-referenced DIYs that can walk you through many different repairs.

Ya your right about needing to see a shop i would try to help but what your looking at is a current draw which could be anything from a radio to a faulty sensor. Its pretty much the same concept as leaving a light on in the car all night something in your car is just using your battery even when its off.

If the fuses are OK, its possible that your wires at/from power windows motor is lossen or broken; will need take off the trim panel to check this and verified voltage; if the measure is OK, then your windows motor need to be replaced.

Keep us updated.

there is not a wiper relay on your Z3 the system uses a wiper module it is located behind the glove box. and is most likely the problem it is what controls the wiper motor speeds.

let me know if there is any thing else you need.

what year and model?

REAR QUARTER HAS TO BE CUT OUT.AND NEW OR USED QUARTER PANEL HAS TO BE WELDED IN PLACE TO THE MAIN STRUCTURE.YOU NEED A LOTS OF BODY WORK SKILLS TO CUT OUT REAR QUARTER PANEL.YOU HAVE TO USE MIG WELDER TO KEEP FROM OVER HEATING WARPING PANEL METAL.YOU NEED A LOT OF TOOLS.IT NOT A EASY JOB IF ITS YOUR FIRST TIME DOING BODY WORK.

you are doing it right the key should be in ignition at position 2 for about 5 seconds no more than 10 removed hold unlock slowly press unlock 3 times if a door lock actuator or even the fuel door lock actuator is malfunctioning it will not work check these with driver door lock cylinder (fuel door lock does not function with central locking button) all doors should be in same locking position to perform this proceedure first try locked then unlocked hope ive been a help

their is a wire broke in the rubber boot from the door pilar to the door ,

It is on the front of the head, facing the radiator.
Follow either big radiator hose, they are both attached to the thermostat housing.
Your thermostat housing is probably plastic. If so, don't re-use it because plastic housings of that vintage shrink and warp. Buy a new plastic or aluminum thermostat housing.
On a car this old, consider replacing every plastic or rubber part you touch, unless you know that the part has recently been replaced. I have a couple of '97 328s, and I never put a plastic or rubber part back on the car without replacing it. Saves a lot of time and repairs down the road.

That's your anti lock brake modulator mis functioning. You need a BMW dealer or a competent shop to look at it. It could be a simple as a defective wheel sensor to the control module.

Lift passenger wiper blade and look bottom of screen
Or lift bonnet and look for number stamped around top of suspension strut
This number is vehicle VIN
Should match VIN on your log book

you have a bought a car with a worn out clutch end of story ,so take gearbox out and then take old clutch in hand to auto factor so you get the right clutch first time then fit it and you will have a nice car ,the clutch is hard to push down because the diaphramn spring in the pressure plate is working overtime because the clutch disk is worn to excess .not too difficult on this rear wheel drive car though just dirty work

You did not mention the year, but I am guessing that you have an all-electric trunk release and the car is electrically dead due to the battery cable problem.
If this is the problem, attach another car via jumper cables to the jumper cable attachment point under the hood and a good engine ground to power the car so the lock will work.

cannot find any of my code reader generators to work as it seems to have the wrong number of numbers it should have ten numbers according to my code calculator ,sorry about that

This is actually a common problem with Z3's. It has nothing to do with the emissions systems, it is a fault with the instrument cluster, sometimes causing one or more gauges to stop functioning. It very rarely sets off any diagnostic codes, and many dealers don't even know how to address it, usually just replacing the entire cluster. Call around to a couple of your local BMW dealerships (don't even bother calling local repair shops) and speak to the service manager. Ask if he is familiar with the problem. Hope this gets you on the right track. Good luck.