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Hi
If you've had the tracking done when you had the track rod ends done and it's still pulling to the left I would check your tyre pressures 1st then look at the tyre on the left of your vehicle if its misshaped this could cause pulling
Hope this helps Nick
Hi, Easy way to get over this is run a cable from working fog light to none working fog light this should then work. Only other way must be the left fog light is not earthed properly run earth wire to the vehicles body. Please give feedback at [email protected] Thanks, Malcolm Campbell.
Pull the 02 sensor in front of the catalytic converter (between the engine and converter) or loosen the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. This will give the engine breathing room, if the converter is clogged. Power will pick up dramatically. Also a bad converter will cause an enormous amount of heat coming out of the tail pipe. Don't touch it. Normally you could grab the tail pipe for a few seconds before it got too warm.
Perhaps the connector behind the unit has become loose/disconnected? There is rarely enough play in the wiring harnesses of today's automobiles (In my opinion). A few good jolts over bumpy roads have pulled wiring harnesses out of place in many instances.
You need to look at the door lock actuators, I'm guessing 1 is operating but staying on when locked and draining the battery. Try manually locking the doors and see what happens. It may come down to removing the door trims and disconnecting each lock in turn, don't forget the boot lock, until you find the culprit. Its possible you may hear the lock solenoid humming or buzzing or feels warm as its trying to lock the door unsuccessfully.
Failed thermostat....likely in the open position....after a long while you get heat. Or...no heat but engine temperature rises quite high then your themostat is stuck closed
Yes, it is very possible for the Mass Air Flow sensor (aka MAF) to cause a misfire. You need to replace the MAF if it's causing a misfire. More detail please if this doesn't answer your question
Hi
firstly, do you have the equipment to change the head gasket.
ie: a suitable torque wrench for the head bolts?
do you know how to re-time the engine having removed and refitted the timing belt(which you should renew)
I`mj looking at the worshop manual now and I presume you know how to strip an engine
The important part is when you replace the head (having made sure it`s not warped or cracked) and having cleaned all mating surfaces, you should have ten cylinder head bolts the tightening sequence is ____________________________
8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
_____________________________
the torque settings are assuming you`rs is a M.40 engine is stage1 30 n/m stage 2: angle tighten 90 degrees stage 3 angle tighten 90 degrees.
Good Luck
Doug
Hi there:The knock sensor responds to spark knock caused by Pre-detonation of the Air/Fuel mixture. As the flame front moves out from the spark plug ignition point, pressure waves in the chamber crash into the piston or cylinder walls resulting in a sound known as a knock or ping. This is caused by using a fuel with a low octane rating, overheating, or over advanced timing. Sometimes it can be caused by hot carbon deposits on the piston or cylinder head that raise compression. A knock sensor is comprised of Piezoelectric materials; Crystals that when impacted, generate a voltage (same idea as a BBQ ignitor). This voltage is monitored by the computer, and when an irregularity is detected, the computer corrects timing in VVT (variable valve timing) engines, or triggers a DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code) in older vehicles. Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.