20 Most Recent 1999 BMW Z3 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

here is some good info and some stats
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_Z3

here are some paid service manuals .. a bit pricey but it looks like used manuals sell for more than new ones ..

you might find the manual at your local library also

this looks more like what you are looking for
http://www.pdf-word.net/Automotive-Guide-BMW/BMW-Z3-Service-Manual.html

good luck .. .

you did not specify year model engine size or miles
and/or what you have/have not done so far

I can only assumed you have not completed any maintenance like plugs, fuel filter and/or wires

sounds like a fuel pump issue

if it's the 2.8L inline six...you gotta real problem. might be able to get it from the bottom but there's also a thread on replacing the starter by taking the intake manifold off.

dealer only. get model and serial # of radio. Free? Ha!

go to the full serve island. have the attendant, who is a trained professional, stop the gas before it spills all over the place.

do not drive away with the pump nozzle in your gas take filler tube, explosion will result.

also, no smoking.

code 15 is for knock sensor, either sensor is faulty or not tightened correctly

I think you can ask this guy for the pdf file for your car, seems like he has everything
http://stores.ebay.com/Fancy-Motorcars?_rdc=1
let me know if you got it

You will need to get it up on ramps. But unless your just energetic it should only cost you 34.99 at your local oil lube place.
None the less youcan change it yourself by raising it off the ground. if you have a set of ramps or a ditch you can staddle and get undernieth the car then there is a drain plug in the oil pan right under the motor. Have a container to catch the old oil. Keeper green my friend and dispose of properly.
You will want to change the oil filter while doing this. The filter holds a quart of the old oil in it and will just defeat the purpose of new oil if you do not. You will need either a filter removal wrench ot I just take a screw driver if I can get to it and drive the driver through it and turn. You only need to torque it back down hand tight. When putting the filter back on take some good clean oil and rub it on the rubber gasket on the filter before re-attaching it. It helps with a good seal. Then tighten it as much as you can with your hands. Another trick is if you can't get to it with a screw driver then take a long piece of cloth and wet it. Enough so you can tie a knot in it and make a circle. Put it over the oil filter and take a wrench or stick and place it in the cloth and keep turning it in circle until yu get it good and tight on the filter. Then turn the filter. It should break loose s you can remove it by hand.. Most of these cars take 5 quarts plus one to fill the filter. Be sure to ask the parts guy. Or just put 3 or 4 quarts in it and start it up so the filter will fill up and then recheck the dip stick. Add as needed until it reaches the full mark.
So thats all there is to changing the oil. If you really want to polish it off you can mark down the date you changed it on the side door panel driver side. They usually have a sticker there to do that. I hope this helps, The Raz

I would suspect that you pulled a wire off when you were installing the water pump. Check to see if you have spark

you mean the asc light is on?
affected by wheels sensors, but also affected bu the ECU. check for a wet ecu...

the ecu compartment is under the windshield on the passenger side on E36

you gain acess to it under the hood....
this compartment gets wet, the ecu lays on a flat surface in that
compartment.

the bottom side of the circuit board gets wet and starts corrosion.

remove the ecu, take the bottom plate off, clean the bottom of the circuit
board with alcohol and a soft tooth brush.

you should be able to see the signs of corrosion or conductive build up.

this gunk bridges solder points doing all sort s of wierd things to your
car, including false sensor readings from asc/abs controllers and other
sensors....

all the way to engine failure and worst case burnt and shorted wiring
harness.

I'm on my 3rd ecu, took me and the repair boys a few years to figure this
one out.

BTW: i would get that ecu mounted above that flat surface, use some sort
of standoff to raise it so that it is not laying in the wet.

wet ecu...

the ecu compartment is under the windshield on the passenger side on E36

you gain acess to it under the hood....
this compartment gets wet, the ecu lays on a flat surface in that
compartment.

the bottom side of the circuit board gets wet and starts corrosion.

remove the ecu, take the bottom plate off, clean the bottom of the circuit
board with alcohol and a soft tooth brush.

you should be able to see the signs of corrosion or conductive build up.

this gunk bridges solder points doing all sort s of wierd things to your
car, including false sensor readings from asc/abs controllers and other
sensors....

all the way to engine failure and worst case burnt and shorted wiring
harness.

I'm on my 3rd ecu, took me and the repair boys a few years to figure this
one out.

BTW: i would get that ecu mounted above that flat surface, use some sort
of standoff to raise it so that it is not laying in the wet.

could be a senosr like crab]nk shaft or mass air-flow but I bet its a wet ecu

the ecu compartment is under the windshield on the passenger side on E36

you gain acess to it under the hood....
this compartment gets wet, the ecu lays on a flat surface in that
compartment.

the bottom side of the circuit board gets wet and starts corrosion.

remove the ecu, take the bottom plate off, clean the bottom of the circuit
board with alcohol and a soft tooth brush.

you should be able to see the signs of corrosion or conductive build up.

this gunk bridges solder points doing all sort s of wierd things to your
car, including false sensor readings from asc/abs controllers and other
sensors....

all the way to engine failure and worst case burnt and shorted wiring
harness.

I'm on my 3rd ecu, took me and the repair boys a few years to figure this
one out.

BTW: i would get that ecu mounted above that flat surface, use some sort
of standoff to raise it so that it is not laying in the wet.

could be a corroded ECU. check the ecu compartment prbably leow the windshield on the passenger side. this boxed area can get wet, swaet and dampen an ecu to the point of shorting out. problems can be gradual.

when you take out the ecu, you will have to remove the bottom plate and inspect the circuit board area. could be algae growing...cleani it with a tooth brush and alcohol, gently.

i would also loook for a way to remount the ecu so it is not laying on a flat surface that can accumulate water.

Most likely problem is the plastic connector inside the door broke or fell off. You need to take off the door panel and check. If it is broke you can get a new clip at most auto stores.

if you can heard the fuel pump noise and sure that you have enough fuel, then it may be you have a problem with ignition system or faulty crankshaft sensor.

Yes it will fit well if they are both of 17"rim.

I had this done last month in Nigeria.

Good car you've got there.

Rate this solution please.

all the codes you have are all related to the fuel trim, this problem needs to be looked at with a european capable scanner for futher tests sorry.

The most common reason for the multiple lights is a bad wheel speed sensor. After checking to be sure the brake fluid reservoir is full, have someone read the code and most of the time it will be one wheel speed sensor is bad. Cost for the part is about $100.00 and you can do it yourself. Some shops will read the code and tell you which sensor to replace. It is a straight forward job to remove the wheel and unplug the sensor at both ends and install a new one. Pelican Parts online sells the part for a good price, and will ship it to you fast.

there will be a code stored if you dont want to guess

or my guess is a wheel sensor is bad