1998 BMW 5 Series - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you can get the key out, flip it over, or try a different key.

Most of us end up removing the whole housing because getting the lock cylinder out of the housing when it is 13 years old is nearly impossible. In theory, you can push a stiff wire or drill bit into the hole in the lock face when the key is turned to the second click and you should be able to release the lock cylinder. Works with a new lock and housing. Does not work with an old one for some reason.

To replace the housing, you will need to remove the steering wheel. Disconnect the battery several minutes before disconnecting the air bag. You will need to remove the plastic cover from around the steering column. It is hard to take off and harder to put back on. Takes about three hands to get everything back in the right position all at once.

When you pull off your steering wheel, be careful not to damage the clock spring connection for the air bag, and note carefully the orientation and position of the two bushings. They are easy to put back wrong, and if you do, the steering wheel will rub.

Be sure to lube your top steering shaft bearing while you have the housing off.

A dremel tool works well to cut slots in the security bolts. Then a short straight blade screwdriver bit turned with a small ratcheting box end wrench is the easiest way to unscrew them.

You will probably want a new key to go with your new lock because the key is probably pretty worn as well.

A short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe pressed down by the steering shaft nut is the best way to put the snap ring back in its notch in the steering shaft

New lock cylinder + new lock cylinder housing + new key = $$$ Many of us with 90s vintage BMWs have felt your pain.

This is a question you should pose to a salvage yard, or better yet to one of those salvage parts finder services on the web. That is a popular part for cars of this vintage, so good luck.
I presume that you have ruled out the wheel sensors and wiring and have determined that the ASC control module has failed?
BTW, the most common cause of an ASC warning light on this vintage BMW (after damaged wheel sensors) is the ASC throttle (aka Secondary Throttle) which is right next to your regular throttle. If its cable is bound, or its electrical connection is damaged, or anything (such as the throttle boot hose clamp) interferes with the action of its throttle plate, it will prevent the ASC from working.

Taking the door panel off and checking the regulator would be a quick way to determine if it's electrical or mechanical. Post again if you need some direction on removing your door panel. It's a about a $100 and an hour of labor to replace a window regulator.

Is your expansion tank original? At 13 years of age, it is just about due to start crumbling inside, and when that happens, air gets in to the cooling system and odd things start happening. I have not heard of this exact symptom before, but my money is on the expansion tank. If you decide to try a new one, cut open the old one and see if the tube inside it is crumbling. If so, I think you found your problem.

Hi

Very common on BMW's just the same as mine in fact, it done this only sometimes then all the time and then one day it wouldnt start at all. 2 things you can do for now just to get you moving.

Remove the key put the steering lock on then put the key in and turn the steering this will normally give you enough grip to start the car on occassion. sprasy inside the ignition where the key sits with WD-40 again this is a temp fix but will get you going.

The ignition barrel will need replacing in the end though. you can do this your self it's not to difficult to do. you still retain the original key but you need to remove the black shroud from around the outside of the barrel

Hope that helps
Regards
Dan

Problem is in the shifting backdrop where is bad to work selection shift safety valve

First time check radio & horn fuses. For 1998 BMW 528i the fuse box / relay plate, fascia 1, is placed in glove box. The horn fuse is no.# 3 (counting from left to right), F3 (15A).


In the trunk you will find the fuse box / relay plate, load area 1. The radio fuse is no.# 56 (counting from left to right), F56 (30A).

Well unless you test the small wire at the starter with a light your not going to know. sounds like this does'nt happen rel often as you haven't gotton it fixed and it must run most of the time.. the key switch is not out of the question as this light you may need to rig will help you figure it out. First if it doesn't crank put power on the small wire and see if it cranks and fires then, If it cranks and doesn't start then your off to this control mudule. BMW's don't have alot of module problems but worn out switches ( the neutral safty switch, the clutch switch, ( if it uses a clutch ) and the key switch I have replaced all in my lifetime of repairs but I've not changed any modules. Sure the battery cables as they connect to the battery, and the ground to the engine block and the power wire on the starter it'self can all do this and someimes they can change temperture and connect andd your back running and you don't know why. If you that all this stuff apart and clean it and put it all back together and it works good you may find it runs good and you don't know what you did that fixed it. Clean all the wire connections first and see if that works before trying any of this other. Yes batteries can do odd things too but cleaning of the cables fixes more cars than any other as a no start 20-1

bad ignition switch...the electrical part at the rear

Hi, since the fuse are in good condition, you definitely have a malfunctioning relay. All you need to is to replace the relay....

Could be the radiator is full of bugs or normal road filth that accumulates. How is the coolant level in the radiator. Fill it if low. Were you stalled in traffic? Were you at high altitude, like in the rocky mountains or appalachian mountains. Check radiator cap. They are relatively in-expensive considering the job they do. The cap pressurizes the fluid in the radiator and prevents it from boiling out at higher altitudes or higher temperatures.

most likely it is a wiring harness problem. maybe rubbing on the steering shaft at some point. May have worn through and broke at the wear spot. The security wiring for the key coder decoder circuit usually is in a harness going to the ignition switch. If it shorts or seperates it will not allow the engine to operate due too no signal to PCM (power control module). The coder/decoder reads the chip in the key and determines if the engine is allowed to be started.

remove negative cable. hook up ammeter between lead and battery. if you have reading of amp flow. disconnect altenator lead. if you have not tried this I would recommend a try. may be a back flow in a trainsistor when it should be blocing reverse flow. GM had this at points in time. the built in regulator would fail. would not stop back flow. The altenator would in essence try to be a motor

either you have alot of weight in the trunk all the time or your rear struts are blown

did you by any chance have some electrical work done and if so was the battery connected???welding maybe....? the car has gone into shutdown mode(after an accident)it will need bringing back to life by a bmw dealers computer.(so im told by my bmw dealer friend)

It should be sping loaded. You may have to spray a little WD-40 down the cable and at the latch inside the door assembly. The button may be either on the driver's door or near the seat. Let me know if you would like a copy of the shop manual for this car.

yes, car thinks the wheel is slipping.

compress the springs, and start un-doing a bunch of hard *** nuts and bolts.

you wont like me if i do? oh well nobody like me anyhow!
if the water jaket built up this much presher its likley to be a stuck thermostat or a blown head gasket,,,,to test for this,, have a "sniffer test" done they take some water out the water jaket and test it to see if it has any hydrocarbons in it,, if it has then its the head gasket poped or a cracked head!
this test takes no longer than 30 seconds to do,,,even stoping for tea!
if you fit a new thermostat first,,,, blead the air out the water jaket as well ,,,,,,,then if it boiles up,,,,its the head gasket?
see,,,you hate me now!!!! dont yer?

have the dealer read it. 39 doesn't sound right, they're usually more digits

could be a wheel speed sensor.