20 Most Recent 1993 BMW 3 Series - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you may have a bad fuse.. check under the hood and under the dash somewhere for the fuse box. look in your owners manual for the fuse location or just call the dealership

go to fuel rail and will have bolt on the end (CRACK) this bolt open and (BUMP) key should have fuel spray if pressure is present let me know and please rate this

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You need to buy or make a tool to hold the pully from turning while you unscrew the fan from the water pump.
I went to the hardware store and bought a strap of steel about 1 1/2" wide and 36" long and about 1/8" thick. I drilled two holes in it sized to just fit over the heads of the 10mm bolts that hold on the pulley. I ground a half-moon dent in the edge to fit around the shaft. Note that the bolts in the pulley are arranged in a rectangle rather than a square. You want to fit across the bolt heads on the long side of the rectangle. You will need to bend a couple of mild curves in the tool to fit around radiator hoses etc.
Then use a narrow jaw wrench to grip the big hex to unscrew the fan from the water pump. Important! It is left-handed thread. I bought a very narrow adjustable wrench just for this task.
I think you will need to at least loosen the fan shroud to get the fan to wiggle out, but I don't recall for sure.
It is unusual to need to replace the fan clutch all by itself. Typically, people are tearing down to replace the radiator or water pump and notice that the fan clutch is loose or leaking oil or both, so they replace that as well.

Have you changed the ignition leads? What was the condition/colour of the old plugs? Have you done a compression check? If it is sporadic that points to an electrical problem If you can get it on a diagnostic at a garage that will help pinpoint the reason but ignition leads should be checked/changed.Also the distributor cap and rotor arm should be inspected for. any obvious tracking/wear etc although sometimes substitution is the only way to pinpoint the problem.

regards
I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.

coolant on the belt is from the hoses that connetct to the radiator. if the belt is loose, get a new one. replace the belt and hoses. refill coolant and car should be fine. you may have other problems so check the pulleys also

Seguro que no tiene nada de aire en el sistema? A veces cuesta dos o tres intentos para quitar todo el aire. Cuando el tanque de reserva se desintegra por adentro, cuesta mas quitar el aire. Hay que quitar el tornillo de pl?stico y llenar el tanque hasta el tope, hasta que solo agua sale del hoyo donde va el tornillo.
Ha cambiado la bomba de agua? Estos modelos llegaron con bomba de agua que tenia impulsor hecho de pl?stico. Con tiempo, el impulsor se desintegra.

Hi Hjv,
Relays are under the rear seat cushion. All the relays are on one card with a plastic cover....
Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to send you the diagrams

Are you sure you use the right type of fluid, and have you let it warm up and checked the level with the engine running?
I would only use the recommended oil suggested by BMW.
http://www.redlinemotive.com/replacement/bmw/atfluid.asp

Try manually shifting it?
Also, is there any chance you disconnected a wire or hose to the transmission valve body when you had the pan off?
Or any chance you got some dirt inside?

i would think bad inertia switch. cuts off everything

Please check the coil, spark plugs and their wires

Sorry to hear this has happened to you, hopefully your son didn't get hurt.

Hopefully you can see and reach both ends of the wires he cut so you can see the wires clearly (if it's hard to see, get a flashlight).

Disconnect the battery.

You need to get barrel connectors, wire strippers and a crimper.

Here's the barrel connector: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-****-Connector-4X313?Pid=search

Here's the crimper/wire stripper combination tool: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Heavy-Duty-Crimping-Tool-1A076?BaseItem=4X313

If you look inside the connector, you will see a piece of metal. This piece of metal will act as a "bridge" for the electricity. The crimper will squish the metal to the wire (metal to metal contact). The crimper has a color code dot in the front of the tool's mouth to show you where the barrel connector needs to go. The mouth has two places to crimp and the correct spot needs to be used to crimp correctly.

Go one by one in the crimping process so you can make sure you get this correct and not cross wire anything. Each wire has a specific color code so one end of the cut should match another end of the cut (make sure you look closely at the wire's insulation because sometimes there may be two colors on the wire's insulation). Everything should be ok as long as you pay close attention to the color codes and crimp properly.

Once you find each end of the cut wire, remove a quarter of an inch of insulation on both sides using the stripping holes found inside the crimper's handle (the quarter inch of wire should show bare metal). Take a connector and place the exposed wire into the connector (take a quick peak to make sure the wire is inside the metal tube), then take the crimper and squeeze the crimper as hard as you can where the wire and metal barrel meet. You should be able to pull on the connector without the wire coming loose. Now place the other end of the wire into the opposite side of the connector and squeeze again. Give it a tug to make sure it is on.

That's it - repeat as many times as necessary to get the ends "bridged." Once you're done, connect the battery and give it a test. You should be good to go. It's a long explanation but this is really easy to do, once you see the connector and crimper this explanation will make more sense to you.

they have "belt dressing" that you can buy from Advance Auto Parts, it'll grease the belt and rotors and provide lubrication. make sure you start your car up before using it. spray on the belt and try to spray the grooves as well. or, go to a nearby auto shop, buy yourself a belt (serpentine, or V) and replace. i reccomend Dayco since they provide you with routing diagrams on the back. Goodluck

There could be a few things causing this. One could be the fuel pump has gone bad. The best way that I can suggest to narrowing down the problem is to get a can of starting fluid and spraying a small amount on the air filter. If the car starts with starting fluid then that will tell you that it is a fuel related problem. It could be an ignition problem. There are many things that will cause ignition problems. A crank sensor, cam sensor, coil packs, security system, etc. The best thing to do is get it in to check the computer for codes.

I have a 1993 bmw 318i and the same problem..no power to the windows or sunroof and no lights on any of the window or sunroof switches.The ANSWER is take the kick panel of the driver side locate the blue relay next to the orange or brown relay.Take the blue relay out and either replace it or take the blue cap off the relay and check the solder to all pins.There is one or more pins where the solder has crack..just buy a soldering gun and some solder .015 diameter and re solder all the cracked solder on the pins and it is back to normal.

usually relay are located inside the fuse box. it a small square black color box. u should find a diagram inside the fuse box itself in the engine bay.

Most likely it is a hydraulic clutch, hence not adjustable.
Most likely it needs a new clutch, it is 17 years old.
There could be an inspection access where an experienced BMW person could tell you if
your clutch plate surface is gone or if there is another failure.

most of the time on the older BMW you can just disconnect the negitive on the battery for about 5 min to reset the light