Top 10 2002 Nissan Xterra Questions & Answers

In reference to the Best Solution comment posted by "Apprentice" on October 6th, 2008, I add the following: This weekend I went through the ordeal of changing spark plugs and leads on a 2001 3.3 V6 Xterra owned by my younger son. Although some changes were relatively easy, there were those that had a degree of difficulty, in particular the 6th spark plug and lead at the rear of the engine between the block and the firewall. To simplify the removal and replacement of same, firstly remove the hood, this will give you addidtional space to maneuvre. Next remove the brackets that secure the A/C piping that runs across the upper area of the firewall. Also, release the brake lines from their firewall securing clips. You may even want to remove the brackets. Make it easy on yourself and remove any obstructing bracket, hoses etc that may inhibit access to the plug in question. Remember that the plug is below and inline with the 5th plug and the indentation in the firwewall. By removing all obstacles, you can now drop a swivel socket onto the plug head which is at a slight angle pointing towards the firewall. It is difficult to remove the plug lead but persevere and it will come off however, before you attempt to remove the plug, get a mirror down between the block and the firewall, shine a flashlight into it, and look to see if the ceramic on the plug has broken away (happened to me), this procedure will also help you locate the position of the plug. If present, make sure that you clean any debris out of the channel around the plug base. You really need someone with small hands and wrists to get down in there to remove any debris with a small straight edge screwdriver, the same goes for placing the swivel socket on the plug for removal. You will need a short extension connected to the socket and then a long extension with swivel to rise above the firewall. This is necessary to attach the socket wrench to the top of the final extension and give yourself adequate room to rotate. Remember, the angle is only slight and the extensions should be almost upright but favouring a slight angle towards the firewall. Be very careful when applying pressure to remove the plug and ensure the socket is perpendicular and not leaning to left or right, as you risk snapping off the plug terminal. Once the plug is out (only use a proper plug removal socket that will retain the plug securely within its body)remember the plughole position and angle, place the new plug into the secure socket and guide carefully towards the hole. Rotate the socket slightly clockwise and anti-clockwise and without pressure until you feel the plug seat down in the hole. Gently rotate the socket/plug clockwise into the thread. Once you know the plug is seated correctly and has connected with the blockhead thread, continue to rotate until tight but do not overtighten as you will risk snapping the plug off at the stem. Once in securely, those small hands come into play again to replace the plug lead, press downwards on both sides of the plug lead flange until the connector snaps in place over the plug stem, replace hoses and brackets, secure all pipelines and cables, clear all tools away from the top of the engine or around the compartment and crank the engine up before replacing the hood. If you have done everything correctly, the engine will fire up immediately. Once satisfied, and after patting yourself/ves on the back, replace the hood and test drive. You will find the difference amazing and the efforts worthwhile. Another tip, secure all extension rods, swivels and socket with electrical tape at the point of connection, this will ensure that if you have to tug hard at any time to get the tool out, it will not come apart. Important: Use only approved rating spark plugs that are designed to last 100,000 miles or you will not only be cahnging them again after 20,000 miles +/- and your vehicle will be once again a gas guzzler. approved ratings run between $2.50 and $9.50 per plug. Get the best, maybe expensive initially but, in the long run, you will benefit. Oh, yes, almost forgot. Advisable to disconnet the battery before you start working around the engine. Unlikely that the engine would kick over but best favour the side of caution!! David SE Florida Brit Property Consultant

It's the valley of the engine underneath the intake manifold. It's about an $800 job because the top of the engine has to come off. However, unless you have a supercharged xterra it shouldn't effect performance. Also, the knock sensor will not trip the check engine light, as it does not indicate a primary problem, so if your light is on you should have another code that should be fixed first.

Your radio believes that it has been stolen out of the car since battery power was lost to it (as a result of the car battery going dead). There should be instructions in the user manual on how to reset the radio.

If it's the indicator that literally says "service engine soon", and not the check-engine light, then you have no worries. That's programmed to come on at set intervals to remind you that routine service may be due soon (oil change, inspection, tire rotation, etc). It's not an indication of failure. Failures will be shown by the check-engine light. That one is nothing to worry about. Your owner's manual should have a procedure to turn it off.

You should not have to reset the key fob after a battery replacement. The signal from the key fob stays the same and is programed to the reciever.
If the key fob needs to be reprogrammed then follow these steps.
1. Have all key fobs with you during programming.
2. Sit in the vehicle with all doors closed.
3. Lock all doors using the Lock/Unlock switch on the door.
4. Insert and withdraw the ignition key 7 to 9 times within 10 seconds (do not turn the key, just insert and withdraw).
5. The 4 way flasher indicator on the dash should flash once or twice.
6. Insert the ignition key and turn it on (key on, engine off).
7. Press any button on one remote and the 4 way flasher indicator on the dash should flash once.
8. If you have more key fobs to program use the Lock/Unlock button on the door to unlock the doors and then lock the doors.
9. Press any button on the next key fob and the 4 way flasher indicator on the dash should flash once.
10. Repeat if you have more key fobs. Only 5 can be programmed.
11. To exit, simply turn of the igniton and remove the ignition key.
12. Unlock the doors using the Lock/Unlock switch on the door and exit the vehicle.
13. Make sure the window is down when testing remotes in case you leave the keys inside.
14. Close all doors and test all remotes that were programmed.

Do not skip any steps or the process will not work.

If the 4 way flasher indicator does not work when inserting the key, you will need to start the process from the begining. If it still does not work the receiver may be your problem.

If the 4 way flasher indicator does not flash when pressing any button on the key fob then the key fob is the problem (dead battery or defective remote)

Code P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction (bank 1 or single sensor)

Here you go John:

http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0127.htm

http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0328.htm

Inspect/Replace If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired.
Heater Housing

• The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
• Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.

The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core. Heater Core

• Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
• Remove the heater coolant hoses.
• Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
• Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
• Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
• To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.

When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.

Unplug the electrical plug/connector from the base of sensor. You will have to take out bolt from the head of the sensor that threads into the cylinder head. Thats really it. Unplug - Unscrew - replace!

rocker arm and shaft torque is 13 - 16 ft lbs