20 Most Recent 2000 Mitsubishi Galant - Page 5 Questions & Answers

tuneup time skipped? the 60k miles tuneup? scan it? if there are DTC errors, it might in LIMPHOME mode, with RPM limits dropped for good reasons. or is misfiring. that too can be felt or seen with the scan tool. the poor idle proves its running bad, no other symptom better prove this. its misfiring, only queston is , why. 50 reasons or 1 to 10 simple tests to find true cause, ask. after a full 60k tuneup,(repeats)

If you don't have the code, you probably will have to pay a dealer to get it for you. My dealer said it was on the back of the radio and he had to remove it to find it. I have no idea if this is true.

As to the other problem of entering the code 3 times, and it now showing "off" instead. Simply put your ignition in the accessory position for approximately one hour. "Code" will magically reappear.

This applies to the 2000 Gallant. My code is 7357 if you wish to try it.

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Sounds like because of the corrosion, you may have a bad connection on the power side of the battery. If you have a fuse blown it will probably be one in the underhood fuse box. You need to check for a blown box fuse if it has them.

when the problem happens, check for spark. The crankshaft position sensor can get heat sensitive, and if it stops you will get no fuel injection and no spark.

It might have a problem with the key. The key is a transponder key so the problem might be there. Maybe one of the computers that have to do with the module has a short or is broken.

Hi there:First I suggest check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

The battery may not be charging, alternator, cable, or fuse problem.The brake system may be low on brake fluid. The parking brake switch may be telling the light the parking brake is on.

You can check the fuses and fuse able links for blown fuses also look at the wiring connection to see if loose or wire shorting out on any metal and if the connection is good and all fuses good then you will need to replace the headlamp bulb or bulbs. Most of the time only one side goes, very rare to have them both go at the same time. Check for a short in the wiring somewhere, that could cause them both to go at the same time. Hope that Helps