2006 Mazda Tribute - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Remove the top of console & change the lamp.

Could be bad battery.

bad solunoid sounds like or wires are shorted.

Could be low fuel pressure, bad mass airflow sensor, bad plug wire, a number of possibilities. Please dont fault the mechanic, you can't fix it unless it's exhibiting the problem while the mechanic is driving it. Thats good cause some mechanics would just take a guess, and start throwing parts, and your money at it. Broken cars are kinda like tooth aches, they quit hurting when you get to the dentist office.

chain

Well what kind of vehicle and what year. Some vehicles you just loosen the tensioner and it comes right off. My car you have to remove a motor mount. Some you have to remove the fan.

the converters have inside them a honeycomb filling that has holes less tha 1/16 '' and many of them. Clean out is not possible. They are prone to cracking and internal disintergration which can block up the exhaust system. They run very hot and if you go through water the temp change is mainly what cracks the insides. It is possible to detect which unit is faulty by hitting the unit with the heel of your hand and listening for rattles

HAVE CAT. CONVERTER CHECKED

TPS wiring may not be connected, damaged or grounded/pinched, The new sensor may be damaged, or it may be well out of range due to not being cycled once prior to securing to make sure of correct engagement with throttle shaft.And also possibly the throttle cable itself may have become disconnected or damaged

if the engine in this vehicle is an "interference engine" and the timing was off, then yes it could have possibly bent the valves..

You have a failed transmission if it is an automatic.

None Have to install a new radiatorI would not put anything in the coolant such as BarsIt will not work on a large hole or leak & will ruin your heater core with that product

Sounds like a wire that is not connected properly. Rechk all connections including inside the cab. Chk if u can find where down the line u get power then work from there. Chk if u can get power by earthing the power at the fuse insert. Using a meter rechk all yr wiring to the windows as this will show u where the power is lost. cheers

The P1504 means Idle Air Control Circuit MalfunctionOBD2 CODE SCANNER

I've got this issue now...taking to garage today. From a friend with an Escape and Expedition and similar past problem, it can be an inexpensive part to replace between the brake pedal and floor board. I've got my fingers crossed...will keep searching internet this AM to see if I can find correct "lingo"!

By bad smell I take it that you are noticing a smell in the car while driving and not from the rear of the car. I'll also assume that the smoke is coming from under the hood and not the tail pipe. Sounds like you have an oil leak around the top of the engine that is dripping onto the exhaust pipe. I recommend that you clean the engine compartment with a good degreaser like Purple Power or Super Clean. Spray the entire engine down, everywhere you can. Let the degreaser sit for 10-15 minutes and rinse off with a strong stream of water. Repeat as necessary until the engine is free of visible grease and oil. Then buy some engine oil UV dye and put that into the engine oil filler. Save some for the power steering pump (about 10th of a bottle is enough). Get some UV Glasses and a light used for detecting air conditioner leaks. Run the car for 15 minutes down the road. Stop and look for the florescent dye trails to find your leak. This is the hardest part of fixing this problem. After the leak is found the repair is usually minor.

Could be a bad spark plug or bad injector.You could switch plugs with another cylinder to eliminate the plugs.Same thing with the injectors.

Hi there:First I suggest check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

There is a very common problem on the Mazda Tribute and the Ford Escape. I found an old thread from this site that discusses it. I found it using Google, but couldn't find it again using the search tool on this site so I wanted to post again. Anyway, the issue is the airbag light in the instrument cluster blinks 4 times then either 6 or 7 times. This repeats several times until the light just stays on solid. The light may go off again, but it comes on again some time later. I have only read about one solution and it worked for me as well as many others. You're going to love this because it's very simple. There are some wires under the front seat that are causing the problem. I looked under the drivers seat first, but because my seat is a power seat, there were a LOT of wires. I've worked on cars all my life (I'm 51 so that's a LONG time), so it didn't take long to figure out which ones went to the seat motor and which ones didn't. If you have a power drivers seat, but a manual passenger seat, I suggest you start on the passenger seat. Look under the front of the seat, on the center console side. I found two wires there (actually four wires, but two connectors). I disconnected each connector then plugged it in again, guessing that the contacts may have gotten a little oxidized over time. Most of you know, but some of you may not, that to release these types of connectors there is always some kind of a latch. You need to push in on the latch as you pull the connector out. Do the same thing to both of them and then plug them back in. I'm guessing, and it's just a guess, that maybe the 46 is for one seat and the 47 is for the other. Since my code was 47, and I tired the drivers side first and it didn't fix it, I am guessing that 47 is the passenger side because disconnecting and reconnecting those wires has at least for the time being, fixed the problem. After you disconnect,reconnect the passenger side wires, check the light. If it doesn't come on, you're done. If it does, then move to the drivers side. You notice that the wires on the drives side are in the same vicinity, but not exactly the same place. And there is one extra connector on this side. The connectors were more difficult to get on this side too. Hopefully, you'll fix yours on the passenger side like I did. Sorry for the long post, but I'm pretty sure that this is going to help someone out. People have spent countless trips going to the dealer trying to get this resolved, some paying hundreds and hundreds of dollars on unnecessary repairs. Don't be "that guy" PS - while you are at it, wiggle the wires a little too, can't hurt. Good luck, I hope it works for you too.