Top 10 2006 Mazda 3 Questions & Answers

06 MAZ 3 check the fuse marked ROOM15a ,,under the hood in the corner of the fuse panel, PULL IT OUT and change it whether blown or not ,,,,,should fix it ,,,,,,,,if the display is not bad

Well, to get it in gear, you can do a few things. The first being press the clutch in and run it through all of the gears without applying throttle and then try reverse again. You can also let off the clutch half way and slightly pull the shifter in to reverse. As you let off, it'll eventually pop right in to gear.



Comment by mohammed387, posted on Oct 05, 2008The solution is to reset the ambient idle setting
This is easily done … all you need is a piece of wire (like a straightened glider clip) and a screwdriver.

When facing the engine with the bonnet up you will see a little black box on the top of the passenger side wheel arch, with the words "DIAGNOSIS" embossed on it. Open it up by pushing on the top of the side clip. There will be a number of cells inside, some with terminal points. The lid of the box contains the key to these cells. When you insert one end of your wire into the TEN cell and the other in the GND cell, it causes the ECU to be bypassed and the ambient idle setting will be used.

Follow the black air intake tube which runs in front of the engine block to where it meets the intake plenum on the driver's side of the engine - that’s the throttle body. On the top left side of the throttle body you will see a small raised cylindrical section, sometimes with a black plastic covering, which contains a large Phillips head-topped screw. This is the idle adjustment screw. It turns anti-clockwise to increase the ambient idle speed.

So now here is the procedure.
1) Make sure that the engine is warm, but not hot.
2) Turn off all electrical items (fan, radio and lights)
3) Start the car and after it settles into a regular idle notice where the needle is on the tachometer. It should be just over the graduation mark below the "1". (around 850/900 rpm)
4) Bridge the TEN and GND cells
5) You should notice the idle speed change after a few seconds.
6) Have a look at the tachometer. If the ambient idle speed moved then you have discovered the problem.
7) Slowly turn the idle screw until the revs come up to just over the graduation mark on the tachometer.
8) Do this slowly, as there is a slight lag in screwing and response.
9) If the radiator fans come on during the process then stop adjusting and wait for it to go off.
10) When you have it idling where you think it should be remove the bridging wire. In a few seconds the ECU idle setting will kick in. If the engine remains at the same rpm then you have matched the ambient idle to the ECU setting.
11) If not, then replace the bridge and adjust the idle screw,
12) Repeat steps 10 and 11 until the idle speeds are matched.

No, don't remove head light. Pop the hood and pull the rubber grommet from the back of the headlight. there should be a harness attached to the back side of the bulb and if you feel around you should feel a small aluminum ring/clip that goes around back of harness plug. this clip pulls out and up. If your facing the hood the release for this clip should be on the right side of the harness. Next, disconnect the harness from the plug ( easier to do with small flat head screw driver). Then slighty twist and pull out light bulb assembly. It should come out with a plug on the end which might confuse you at first when comparing it to your replacement bulb which is a H7. This bottom piece which is black needs to be disconnected from actual bulb itself. You can gently pry the two apart with a small flat head screw driver. What ever you do don't touch the new replacement bulb with your fingers or get dirt or oil on the bulb. It's a halogen bulb and any oily substance especially human sweat and contact with hands will cause the bulb to actually cook and burn out over time when light is on. To install just do the same in reverse. Don't be a cheapscape, buy the $1.00 contact grease they sell you at the auto parts store. Apply this to the pins of the bulb and the socket it sits in.

This really works...the fuse that controls the Information display power is the one labelled "ROOM" (15Amp). It is located under the hood in the engine fuses.

I didnt even replace mine, I simply scraped off the dirt/rust from the metal portion and reinserted it. If this doesnt work, test the ROOM port with a functional fuse switch (I used the one labelled HORN, 15amp). If it works with the switch, you have a good part, but need a new fuse.

Free solution to an expensive problem...if you dont know whats wrong.

I had that, got a new unit from incurance company scrapyard for $80, changin it was $20 and when opening the old one (the knob is a potentiometer) there was just excess oil between contact surfaces... Local M dealer gave me an estimate of $1500+job

your engine # if it is original engine is encoded in your vin #or stamped on the block of the engine more often than not if its a foreign manufacturer its on the back of the engine toward top just under the area where the head sits
sugestion use a mirror and a flash light.we wish you luck

check ur gas cap for tight and proper seal that is the most common problem for the the evap codes if cap is good check fuel and vent lines for damage or leaks from gas cap under vehicle up to engine compartment

i do have the same problem and i took the car to 5 differant mechanic an dget no solution the aaamco the petboys the mazda dealer another transmission specialist please let me know if u have any solution

Mazdas have had problems in the transmission area for years and it seems like they would be better by now. TCM module is the transmission module and it usally fritzes out becausr a soiloid shorts out and puts too hight a load on the system. The american makers have had so much troble in the past that thier computers turn the check light on disregard ( turn off ) whatever whent bad and try to drive on without that function. The TCM is under the radio but it's not likly to be bad unless the battery was hooked up backwards, jumped started wrong or other charging system problems. The trans will work with out it's computer but like you point out it shifts hard and you don' have high gear and converter lock=up. Find the different soioids on the transmission and un[lug them on at a time. Sounds simple till you go to do it. The connector has all the sensers and actuators in the same plug. but you can still test them for shorts to ground ( nothing is connected to ground inside the trans, unless it's bad.) then testing each wire to all the others with an OHM meter no wire should be connected directly to another 3 OHM minume. once you find the shorted wire remove them from the plug with a wire plug remover tool and thenput it all together and clear codes and them run it and see whick codes come back in. ( checking to see what doesn't work will help too.) the code discription will tell you what you disconnected and then just do what it takes to follow though on the code repair. ( there's lots of things that can happen. So if it's the lock-up soioid the trans has to come all apart and the rebuild may cost so much that a used unit or a trip to the car lot and trade that problem child in with the wire you found still dissconnected as the car will likly be better with out the bad circuit

The coolant temperature sensor (ECT) is located on the coolant tube near the air filter housing, I have included a few diagrams to assist in helping you to locate this sensor. These diagrams are for the 3.0L engine.






Here is the location if this is the 2.3L engine