20 Most Recent 2000 Mazda MPV - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The trouble with automatic transmissions, in cases like these, is that you may not have a choice but to have the transmission removed and disassembled to find the problem. If all that happened was a loss of fluid, it is unlikely something as simple as an external sensor or a linkage problem is going to cause your issues. At the very least, the pans would need to be removed and inspected for large amounts of debris. Even without loud noises, it doesn't take long for internal aluminum parts to wear or break when not properly lubricated. With the pans removed, you can also inspect (and/ or change) the fluid filter. If there are no large pieces of metal found in either or the pans, there is a small chance you may be able to bring the van back to life. I have had moderate success using Lucas Oil Products in the past and use them quite a bit in my shop. Keep in mind, this is a gamble and could cost as must as $250 for parts and labor (if you're not doing it yourself). With the pans removed and no large debris found, remove the filter and let all of the fluid drain for at least 15 minutes. Then use spray parts cleaner to completely removed all dirt and old fluid from all the parts you can see. Then install a new filter and pans with new gaskets. DO NOT use silicone sealer if the pans call for a gasket. This only breaks down with fluid and plugs filters. At any parts store, find 2 quart bottles of Lucas Transmission Stop Slip. It's a little costly, but I've seen it bring worn transmissions back from the dead. It is also important to use high-quality, name-brand fluid. Most parts stores carry a store-brand, which is made by the same company that makes Valvoline. I use them every day and have never had a problem. Add 3 quarts of transmission fluid to begin filling. Start the engine and idle for about a minute. This will begin priming the transmission pump and filling the torque converter. Stop the engine and add the 2 quarts of Lucas additive. The additive is very thick and will drain very slowly in cold temperatures. Keep the bottles inside and warm until you are ready for them. Once they are both completely drained into the transmission, start and idle the van for about 10 minutes to get warm. While idling, apply the brake and shift to reverse, then neutral and then to drive several times. If the transmission does not engage right away, check the fluid and continue to top off with fluid until it is at the full COLD range. Once the transmission is full and the engine is warm, test drive the vehicle. If this procedure is going to help anything, it should start to take effect within 100 miles. If it doesn't happen right away, don't panic. Just drive the van normally without any sudden acceleration or stopping (hard acceleration can cavitate the pump due to the thick additive) until you start to see a change. I know this seems like a lot of work just to "try" and keep your van going, but I've done this on multiple vehicles in the past. Again, it is a gamble...but it may just pay off. My shop typically charges around $200 for this service, but a replacement transmission could run in the range of $4000. Good luck!!

It appears that you have a viscous fan hub. Fan is mounted to a hub on the end of the water pump IT will have a big aluminium centre to which the fan is bolted. The hub is designed to start to lock up when the radiator gets hot and they were introduced to save fuel. However they will fail and when they do you will get an over heat situation at the lights. IT is best to replace them with a new item After market will be about 1/3 price of a genuine item and will be made by the same manufacturer. I have added extra silicone fluid to my Mazda fans but it is a time consuming job. However there may be shops that can do the job in your area. So yes it is a sign of a problem fan as when the engine is hot you would have difficulty holding it but not when it is cold.

you may have gone past a setting of a sensor and the CPU shut it down .try resetting the CPU with a code reader and read any faults that were recorded as well

The pressure pump is located in the fuel tank.

What ever ******** means but I think you means that there is a flat spot in the acceleration mode.. If so run the fault codes and look for an accelerator position sensor / MAF/MAP sensor problems

Have you checked your antifreeze level? When the vehicle is cool check the level and top it off if its low. Read your manual if you're not sure where to look. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

Check the automatic transmission fluid level. Consider a $100 fluid flush and filter change at a local mechanic. Add $20 B&G synchro shift.

It looks like you are safe with a timing chain that won't break. Consider going to a local parts store for a free diagnostics check to read the codes. It is likely a fuel pump and filter replacement that is required.

It was installed in the wrong position on the spline or it was not pushed on completley.

Parking switch damaged. The two starting positions P and N both have a separate safety switch which allows starter motor to crank only in these two positions. Replace the "Parking Starting switch".

Yes they reprogram PCM all the time they just need your VIN# But used PCM must Identical as in engine trans.and acessorary equipment

I think it may be an electrical issue but I think it's just a fuse. There are 2 fuses I would check. One of them is a 15 amp fuse inside the fuse panel inside the vehicle (see fuse layout below) and the other is a 40 amp fuse in the fuse panel under the hood of the vehicle in the engine compartment (see other picture below). I marked the fuses to check and hope this is the problem.