2001 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check to see if the panel fuel gauge is showing the correct amount of fuel. If that's ok then the fuel tank float may be bad.

Or bad float !!

Check the idle control valve. Just an idea

Body ground

Reset the computer & check the fuel PSI. You may want to replace the gas filter. when u run dry, the filter picks up all the dirt at the bottom of the tank. Make sure your gas PSI is good before u get into electronics. start w the basics. That would set that code too trying to start dry.Good luck

You could avoid that by taking it to a qualified repair shop ! Because it obvious you do not know how to do automotive electerical testing ! How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit First off you need to know how the system works , all componets in the circuit . How to find a wiring diagram , how to use a volt meter . And in a lot of caes the ignition switch is a input to a control module , BCM - body control module ,PCM - powertrain control module etc... Starter Voltage Drop There is also a park neutral safety switch , starter relay in the under hood fuse box . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know How to Diagnose No Crank No Start Issue Nothing or only Click When the Key...

Check fuses, headlight connector, headlight bulb and is all are ok replace headlight switch.

Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) On the left I/P sound insulator

It depends on the vehicle. 9 times out of 10 this code means the thermostat has failed, of course I'd try that first. I do not know what mechanical skills you possess or what type of vehicle you're asking , so I can't really answer the second part of the question. Some tstas are easy, other ones require a lot of work.

About Hours: 2.30

here is a nice video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nX5HARPSF4

sounds like it could be plugged injectors or a timing problem.

There is no magic fix button on your truck. You will need to perform standard diagnostics on the truck to determine the problem or, if you do not know what steps to take, have a competent mechanic diagnose it for you.

Tilt the steering wheel down all the way and see if it starts, if it does then there is a main power wire loose in the steering columb. Thats all which comes to my mind at this time.

May be two pump fuses plus a relay. All should be in main fuse block under hood I think.

if you can't find one, it might be that either it doesn't have one (as some cars) or it might be located inside of fuel pump assemply (inside fuel tank) but that's a longer story :)

the e-brake cables could be sticking and not returning all the way free them up and adjust the cables. also you may have worn brake shoes or they need to be adjusted.

I would say more than likely it the radiator cooling fan. For some reason some vehicles, no matter what temperature, the cooling fan clutch engages which makes the cooling fan run at full speed like there's no fan clutch. It sort of makes it sound like the engine is revving up but it's simply the sound of the rushing air from the fan clutch making the cooling fan spin at full speed. Hope this helps.

Check this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChLY5h8n-7s 2000 gmc sonoma plug and wire change

On the 2001 gmc jimmy 4.3L v6 engine there are two air pump check valves: there's a pipe (about 1" diameter) that comes off each of the exhaust manifolds. the check valves are screwed onto those pipes. then a rubber hose (about 1.25" outside diameter) is clamped to the front of each check valve and connects to the air pump, which is hidden behind the vehicles grille in front of the radiator. typically, if you need to replace these (the life expectancy is about 3-4 years), it starts a chain of events that might be as follows: during the wintertime, water from the exhaust leaks through the worn out one-way check valves, and ends up in the air pump. the water freezes, and the ice jams the air pump, which may or may not ruin the air pump, but which usually blows the air pump fuse, which is impossible to find if you're rummaging around the passenger compartment fuse box or the under-hood fuse and relay box. it ain't there! so if you're looking under the hood leaning up against the front bumper, slide to your left around the passenger side headlight. now you should be looking at the battery, leaning up against the passenger side fender. look down between the battery and the fender. you have to push a few things out of the way, but there you will find a green 30 amp blade fuse (about 1" x 1" fuse--and $2.99 at autozone). this blown fuse should have triggered the check engine light and a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) of p0410 (secondary air injection system). for that vehicle there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) put out by gm (bulletin # 04-06-04-015; march 2004). if you want to print out some literature about all that i've mentioned just surf on over to http://www.obd-codes.com/p0410 for more links and documentation. my credentials: self-proclaimed auto mechanic for 26 years (sorry, no ase certification yet [but still trying to find time to study for the tests]) and college dropout (after 3 years of electrical engineering)--so, in other words, don't believe a word i say; just go to that website and get it straight from the horse's... 
Good luck and hope this helps. I know you have a Sonoma but we have the same platform. I am thinking of buying a set of headers without the Air injection system and having the jimmy dyno tuned again to eliminate the service engine light and recalibrate the ECM to eliminate the air injection pump.