2000 BMW 7 Series - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you need a monitor upgrade

Here are some suggestions... For fault 140 thermostat you may also want to check thermostat wiring connector by t-stat and also DME (disconnect inspect clean) For fault 185 leakage... try this; The wiring to the Fuel tank leak pump chafes on the L/R inner fender liner and cuts the wire in half or opens the insulation and the wire corrodes. Pull the L/R wheel and then remove the fender liner. You will probably see a spot on the liner where the wire has rubbed. Find the break in the wire and fix it. Reroute the wire so it does not chafe again. For fault 106 replace the brake light switch under the dash

Could leak on the seal?

Go to auto zone they check for free, then will know what's is next.

run the fault codes and check for problem air temp sensor , MAF/VAF sensors

Hi there, Page 104 of the user manual articulates the climate controls functions of the vehicle. Defrosters are identified as buttons 16 (front) and 15 (rear). Temperature control with buttons (6) down and 8 (up). All Docs BMW 7 Series Owner Manuals

This is normally a problem with the LCD display and cannot be fixed. Im sorry but you will have to try and locate a used unit from an auto breaker or buy a new one.

check the negative wire from the battery to the body (not good ground ) clean

okay so what's the problem no power no what. have to be a little more detailed with your problems

Neutral lockout switch or ignition switch if the car is an automatic. Switch on the clutch if it is a stick. If auto try starting it in neutral.

change your bulbs.

You need to get the code from the dealer.

My il did the same thing for a long time. I found a wrecked il in a junk yard and bought the amplifier in the trunk for $50. They are over a thousand at the dealer. Problem solved!! Ray

The cap to your power steering reservoir should either say ATF or CHF11s. If it is ATF you can use Dexron automatic transmission fluid. If it is CHF11s the dealer is the only place I know that sells it. There should be level marks on the cap stick.

"Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical" according to:http://web.archive.org/web/20090416200738/http://www.x5world.com/articles/x5/general-information/9544-bmw-fault-codes-their-meaning.html

some bmw cars and suvs use 10w60 oil.(m3 ,x5 4.4 and 4.8 l for example.)a common mistake is to use 10w30. this will cause lifter noise and oil comsumption.

some of these thing have a thermal overload cut out so it might have come back on by now

Check the ACC fuse under the Hood, there may also be a secondary fuse under the dash in the fuse panel (look at the diagram for that fuse).it can also be one of the wires slipped out from behind the lighter, Remove the lighter to verify this.. the ACC fuse controls all accessories like the Stereo and such. so if the stereo is working and the fuse's are good changes are its a broken wire or one that became loose. PS check the wires with the IGNITION ON FOR POWER. if there is power replace the lighter unit.

Have the battery tested as the first step.