20 Most Recent 2006 Mazda 5 Questions & Answers

Late response but... If the starter relay clicks when you turn the ignition then the issue is ENGINE side of fuse box. It is not anything to do with anti theft systems/computers/ECU’s/BCU’s/MAF or anything else. All these things kick in before the starter relay, if the starter relay does not click then it could be a faulty relay so try swapping that first. If it still won’t click then the issue is ignition side of fuse box and I’m afraid it could be any of the things above.
OK if the relay is clicking then the ignition is telling the car to start and the issue must be either that there is no signal getting to the starter motor solenoid or that the starter motor is not working. On most mazdas of this generation the wire that sends 12v from the relay to the starter motor solenoid is suspect. The wire is red and slightly thicker than the others that leave the fuse box, it attaches to the solenoid on the starter motor via a spade connection. The connection is often loose and corroded and a simple clean up with abrasive paper and a tightening by gently squeezing the female connector with pliers before refitting will solve the issue.
I have seen people replace starter motors and batteries for no reason when cleaning the connector would have solved the problem for free. A new battery sometimes cures the issue for a while (more charge so jumps through the corrosion better than the old battery) but the issue returns because ITS NOT THE BATTERY!!
My Mazda 5 did this for months, start fine for a week then not start for days, start in the morning then not at night. Two garages and an auto electrician couldn’t work out what was wrong - I traced the wiring and bingo! loose wire.
I unplugged the wiring harness from the fuse box too, sprayed plenty of electrical contact cleaner in there and left it to dry. Anyway that’s was about a year ago and mine has started every time since, hot or cold, short or long journey.
In case you need to know - fuse box is the black plastic rectangle under the bonnet on your right side (as you face the car from the front) - top unclips to reveal relays and wiring harness connector (big bunch of wires that can be unclipped and pulled free)
Starter motor accessed from below it is bolted to the front of engine with the solenoid and suspect wire connector on the top of the main starter.
Good luck ??

Your door should be held on with clips. Removing the panel is sometimes hard, just take a good WIDE flat head screwdriver, and whatever tool needed to remove the screws holding the panel on, and be careful. Check underneath the panel, by the inside handle, and the arm point for screws. Once removed, take your WIDE screw driver, and don't quite pry them off, more or less try to get it underneath and pull towards yourself. There is no real easy way, just try to be patient with it, and if you hit any binds, look for more screws, its just a matter of patience for sure.

You can clear these if less than 60% blocked by giving the car a good blast on the motorway going through the revs. If your car is on limp mode you do need to replace the particulate filter as the blockage is too much to regenerate. I have found a company that does these very cheap and are technicly brilliant i had many questions and they seemed to answer correctly with confidence. They supplied the part to me for £500, i have checked from this for the automotive solutions guys that did it for £450 but couldnt find them which is why i went with these. The company is Onlineautomotive.co.uk and i spoke to someone Called Darrell. There number is anyone wants it is 0844 880 4149 he did giv me a direct number but im sure he wouldnt want me to list that on here as its his work mobile.

indicates a VSS sensor and it is a common fault however as to the price , take it to an accredited auto transmission specialist for a diagnosis and quote the same fault can be from dirty transmission oil a second opinion from a specialist is always a good idea

there should be a black box under the dash assosiated to the keyless entry you need to open it and there should be two pins next to each other you need to arc them together with a screwdriver you should see the blinkers flash then without releasing the screw driver press the button on the remote pad repeat this for the other remote

You have to go to your dealer, because they need to remove the dash to change the blower.

You probably still have air in your brake lines you have to pump the brake hold it there lead the break repeat until you go to three times then you should be good

Check out this video...

take unit out remove top cover of cd and gently life cd carrier up to the slot and retrieve

Are you having any problems with the vehicle or warning lights coming on or is this just a code that was pulled up with an OBD2 scan tool. The U code is simply indicating that the engine computer lost communication with the transmission computer for some unknown reason. These codes are set all of the time for varying reasons between the engine, transmission, body, antilock brakes or other modules. Since all of the computers or modules communicate with each other on the same two set of twisted CAN or Computer Area Network Wires it is not uncommon for one module to not get an immediate response from another module and that module or computer sets a code for no response. The technology is just not there yet to get all of the computers on a car to communicate in a timely manner and get each computer to recognize that fault.

Both, it has an On Board Diagnostic computer, or OBD-II. For giving problem codes. But as far as in tune up wise, only has one for the oil.

Could also be clogged cabin air filter. Could have a blockage in the ducting, too.

Did you check all fuses relays

on line, auto zone has a o ring for oil cooler at a reasonable cost. if the cooler is contaminated or corroded it needs replaced. if you need one, go online for the best deal. for it cools the oil for the engine. let them know at auto zone, and they should be able to advise you. car dealerships are a big ripoff. a fan blows air on engine oil cooler for disipation off heat. this is important to regulate the tempurature of the oil. have a very good day !!