2005 Chevrolet Silverado - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
Why does my 2005 chevy silverado manual transmission keep blowing the INJ2 fuse?
Check stored ODBII codes for injector circuit high/low faults (P0200). Implies a injector control wire short or failing injector. Further troubleshooting is required, test don't guess. Check injector #2 control wire for signs of abrasion or rodent damage. Use an ohm meter to compare resistance of number 2 injector to other injectors. Search internet for how to... plenty of videos.
2005 Silverado front brake sticking
The heat of the system causes the air to expand more than brake fluid and it actually applies pressure to the brakes as you warm up the vehicle. Hopefully you bench bled the master cylinder or took the time to bleed it on the vehicle before hooking up the brake lines. If not, start there. I've been at this a while and want to take a minute to make sure you did it as it should be done. During this entire process, do not let the master cylinder reach the bottom or you have to start over. You should cautiously fill the master cylinder to the correct full amount and re-install the lid to limit splashing (air gets into the fluid) during the bleeding operation. This is a 2 person operation. First, to get all of the air out you must start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, the Right Rear! Now, after breaking the bleeder valve loose but still not letting brake fluid drain,,, have your assistant pump the brakes until tight as possible and then hold the pedal to the floor until the fluid has been bled from the first location. DON'T release the brake pedal until you have made sure the bleeder valve is closed. Repeat this until you have no air at all and clean fluid. Now, do the next wheel. Left Rear! Next the Right Front, and finally the Left Front. By following this method you will have eliminated all of the air from the brake system as long as you don't have any leaks.
Fuel gage and speedometer don't work
remove the dash clean the connectors and refit, sounds like its become un-seated on the connection, if you push on the dash and see if it comes to life again or parts come back then this is the fault, other fault can be the board on the back of the dash, damp etc can cause electrical problems, it may need drying, and you can re seal the board with nail varnish clear but you will need to re-solder all the connections back on first then use the varnish, the varnish should last years longer than the flaky stuff they use from new, just make sure its dry before plugging back in to the vehicle.
ABS brakes grunt, groan noise with brake pedal travel.
Joe it is common for the brakes to moan when they wear down and sometimes they will squeak, try replacing the front pads and lubing the shafts on the calipers install anti squeal on the back of the pads, the ABS device would not cause noise as they are just a ring with a magnet and the reluctor ring spins and the magnet detects the spinning of the reluctor ring, they don't even touch and are stationary in place where they are mounted. There is a possibility that the brake fluid is dirty and could cause the abs motor to groan but you would just have to flush the system, When you don't put your foot in it on the brakes it will make some noise even new, I have a 2008 ford ranger that makes the same noise and the brakes are fine. You will have to adjust your braking habits to stop the noise. You can change the pads and that will help but not for long, be sure when you are operating your brakes press firmly on the pedal until you stop. If the brakes make noise after you let up on the pedal then the caliper parts need to be cleaned and lubed, however it is not a safety issue.
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