20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 2 Questions & Answers

remove the dash clean the connectors and refit, sounds like its become un-seated on the connection, if you push on the dash and see if it comes to life again or parts come back then this is the fault, other fault can be the board on the back of the dash, damp etc can cause electrical problems, it may need drying, and you can re seal the board with nail varnish clear but you will need to re-solder all the connections back on first then use the varnish, the varnish should last years longer than the flaky stuff they use from new, just make sure its dry before plugging back in to the vehicle.

Have a factory or professional scanner hooked up , check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's .GM had problem with stepper motors in side the instrument cluster ,model years 2003 to 2006 . Stepper motor's control the gauge needles . How to repair GM Instrument Cluster Speedometer Gauge Stepper The ABS an service brake message or probably related , have it checked for code's !

Joe it is common for the brakes to moan when they wear down and sometimes they will squeak, try replacing the front pads and lubing the shafts on the calipers install anti squeal on the back of the pads, the ABS device would not cause noise as they are just a ring with a magnet and the reluctor ring spins and the magnet detects the spinning of the reluctor ring, they don't even touch and are stationary in place where they are mounted. There is a possibility that the brake fluid is dirty and could cause the abs motor to groan but you would just have to flush the system, When you don't put your foot in it on the brakes it will make some noise even new, I have a 2008 ford ranger that makes the same noise and the brakes are fine. You will have to adjust your braking habits to stop the noise. You can change the pads and that will help but not for long, be sure when you are operating your brakes press firmly on the pedal until you stop. If the brakes make noise after you let up on the pedal then the caliper parts need to be cleaned and lubed, however it is not a safety issue.

This will need the cluster stepper motors to be replaced. US Speedo The Industry Leader in Everything Speedometer

Need to pull DTC codes in transfer case control module to diagnose this problem.

Need to pull DTC in transfer case control module to diagnose this problem/.

Install a meter in series with the neg battery cable. After all modules go to sleep your drain amount should be 50milliamps or less. Trick all doors into thinking they are closed by tripping the latches manually so the vehicle remains asleep while you have access to the interior. Pull ALL fuses and breakers 1 at a time until you see the meter read close to the given spec. This will disclose the circuit that the draw is coming from and let you see the actual amount of the draw live as you are investigating.

Vacuum leak, tear in the air duct between the MAF and throttle body. Have it scanned to see what the fuel trims show. A vacuum leak will cause the PCM to add more fuel to correct a lean condition. That'll cause misfires and load the converter, causing it to melt down and restrict exhaust. Sound like you're throwing parts at it instead of diagnosing the problem

Lisle tool 50600 Back Single Spring Brake Tool is made just for this purpose. Makes it a piece of cake. Nightmare to do without it.

Check the power steering fluid level. Left is torque side and probably tightens the belt as right it would loosen the belt a little so check the belt for sloppyness too. Hope this helps, The Raz

it will be the actuators on the transfer case check electrical connections , actuators and any vacuum hoses

Trying to understand from what you wrote..It sounds like something is not recirculating correctly.I would change out the thermostat first because it's the cheapest thing you can do..It might be getting stuck...not opening normal..When you said you turned on the heater and no hot air.. there's a hose right there at the thermostat that runs to your heater core usually under your glove box..If your not getting hot air then the water is not recirculating through your heater core..it could be a valve that is stuck when selecting heat that's not working also.. Flush your radiator..Open the radiator cap only after car motor has cooled down..Drain the radiator...There's a small turn valve nut at the bottom of it..Watch what comes out..is the water rusty color especially as it slows down from draining...They make radiator flush.. Also you can buy a thermostat that opens sooner...Like if yours is 180...you can buy one that opens at 160..A lot of cars are missing the black spoilers under the car that help push air up to keep motor cool..Make sure your water pump is good..Cat converter is not clogged in front of muffler...It will make you car run hot if it's getting clogged...Also Find out where your losing coolant...I've seen on holes in the heater core that leek from where your AC condensed water drips out..It will fool you and loose about a cup of water.. Smell the water your loosing also....if it's dripping from where the AC water is and you smell coolant...You have a bad heating core

under the dashboard to the right of your controls there is small resistor.Unplug it and replace,I had the same thing with my 00 silverado. Jeff

Retrofitting HIDs into halogen headlight assemblies is ******* and my look bright to you, but they actually cast less light on the road because the reflector isn't designed to focus an HID tube. Their designed to focus a filament. Are HID kits legal Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

How about motor mounts.

This model has a weak connector on the blower resistor. Remove the hush panel on the passenger side and disconnect the resistor. Look for signs of melting on the connector plastic near the ground terminal. The resistor may also have failed. I have the wiring diagram somewhere if you need it.

May be a slight short in the switch/button. Enough that it cycles the settings or just stays on. If you want it to stay off for now, look for a fuse or relay to pull. Come to think of it, might be a bad relay. If there is one for each seat, try swapping them out and see if the problem starts on the other seat. If it follows the relay, then there's your problem.

There will be a vaccum fitting on the booster tank. With the engine turned off pull the vaccum fitting off and you should hear a hiss (air going into the tank) as this tank stores vaccum. If you do not hear this hiss there is a vaccum leak that must be fixed. It could be the tank, master cylinder, a hose, or valve.