20 Most Recent 2005 Buick Rendezvous - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Voltage spike. You have to remove the instrument panel, turn it clockwise 360 degrees the needle will go back to 0. Reinstall it.

Not the Radio. \Static is a result of a short. Could be a speaker wire, insulation or bared surface. Connection not good, or even the radio antenna out of phase.

Here's how to test for a bad diode with nothing more than a decent digital multimeter. 1. Set the meter to read "AC VOLTS" (lowest range). 2. Connect the black "COM" lead probe tip to the battery negative post. 3. Connect the red "VOLTS" lead probe tip to the battery positive post. 4. Run the engine at 1500 rpm. 5. Turn on the a/c and rear defroster. 6. Your meter reading should not exceed 0.09 volts (90 millivolts) AC. You can replace the diodes in the alternator fairly easily, or just swap in a rebuilt alternator if one is available fairly cheaply for your car.

A rough idle would probably result in a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL or Check Engine) and one option would be to go to an auto parts store and have them read codes stored in the On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system. Before doing that however, I would pop the hood and with the engine idling, carefully, carefully wiggle all the vacuum hoses you can see. Split or cracked lines can introduce "unmetered" air to the intake system, leaning out the mixture and causing your symptoms. Of course a defective Exhaust Gas Recirculate (EGR) valve, as well as other failed or failing engine management devices can also cause idle problems and that's where the code scan can help. But don't expect a scan to pinpoint your problem. Code interpretation is an art. Other options: Dirt around the throttle plate. Ignition system issues. spark plugs (although problems here do not usually present at idle) Go for the low-hanging fruit first, loose or defective vac lines. All the best.

I am guessing your brake light switch is faulty or needs adjusting. Its located at the brake pedal

Your starter draws the heaviest current of any electrical load in the car and even though all other devices are working properly, any resistance in the starter circuit can be a problem. When your battery was changed, the terminal connections were no doubt inspected, but corrosion can often find it's way under the insulation and up along the cable. Pull the battery connections off again and check the cables carefully. All the best.

The starter is located under the engine near the transmission on the radiator side. Disconnect the battery, disconnect and keep track of the wires going to the starter. Unbolt the starter from the motor.there may be a couple of plastic shields that need to be removed from the transmission in order to gain access to the two bolts. Remove the starter. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

my 2000 chevy malibu shakes while im driving over 40 mp

Speedometer and/or Odometer Inaccurate or Inoperative Test Description The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.

1. This test procedure may cause DTCs to set, which may cause other systems to be inoperative or disabled.

Step

Action

Yes

No

Schematic Reference: Instrument Cluster Schematics 1

Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle? Go to Step 2 Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle in Vehicle DTC Information 2

1. Install a scan tool.
2. Raise the vehicles drive wheels. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Start the engine.
4. Place the transmission into drive.
5. With the scan tool, observe the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) parameter in the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) Engine Data 1 data list.

Does the VSS parameter match the speedometer display? Go to Step 3 Go to Step 4 3

Does the odometer operate properly? Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems Go to Step 4 4

Replace the instrument panel cluster (IPC). Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup, and programming.

Did you complete the replacement? Go to Step 5 -- 5

1. Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
2. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs that may have set in other modules during diagnosis.

Did you correct the condition? System OK Go to Step 2

Driver's under dashboard above feet area

sounds like you may have a loose ground but if they are on different fuses wiper motor dying possibly

Probably not all related. GM's grounding strategy is horrible. I would locate, clean and tighten all the grounds. Also, it's not uncommon for the switch contacts to wear out and burn up on the wiper controls. For your gas meter, try buying a few bottles of Techron and pouring a bottle in at each fillup. The sending units are notorious for getting deposits in them that cause intermittent failure and the Techron has been great at solving that issue

Top of the transmission next to the vacuum lines that control the overdrive shifting

Hi.Technically, that's impossible. The heating system in your car gets its heat from the engine. If the engine is running, then it will generate heat and there's no stopping that. The only thing that would prevent the heat from getting into the air that's blowing into the car is if the air selector is set to "Recycle" instead of "Fresh".So, look at the controls for the heater and be sure that the air selector is pulling air from the outside and into the car.I hope this helps.Randy

It may be a function of the cars security system to lock it. you can disconnect it.

Check the battery.

Change spark plugs and plug wires.

My question is why did you drive it for 2 days with the chevk engine light on? You shoukd have headed right to the dealership or your mechanic.

My issue was the rear flow valve, just in front of the rear differential was bad.

Heated seat issues are almost Dealer Only repairs The dealers,some anyway, bring in outside seat folks, after 5:30 when the service bays closes, to do seats I am well versed in the heated seat issues They not only require the dealer techs,the outside seat folks, they need hours of wire checking & as with my car, many go on for years & never be resolved Keep in mind, I'am a 50 year experienced vehicle person, all be it, retired, I do today's diagnostics on vehicles The seat & all the other issues can & many to some extend be on a Network called a CAN as was mentioned on another question today Controlled Area Network where modules talk to each other So your off to a dealer,my suggestion for ALL your issues Never say a dealer very often,never what I suggest, but we are going that way with current technology