Top 20 2007 Hummer H1 Questions & Answers

Has the fuel pressure regulator been checked? Check the cam position sensor and crank pposition sensor- they will test like a tansistor, because they are a hall effect transistor. I suspect one of those two sensors may be at fault.

Did you clean the battery posts? A dirty connection will cause a loss of charging. If the conections are clean have your battery tested at a local auto parts store.

It's your output seal on your geared hub. http://hummernetworkforums.com

Sam, this is all I could find, check the link. 1996 T600 Kenworth Battery cable hookup Google Search

im no guru on h1s, not yet anyways but there should be two of them. one should be under dash on driver side(look for small door compartment) the second one should be under the hood, most likely driver side. it will also be enclosed. it could possibly have a bolt of electricity emblem on it.let me know how you come out on this. if im wrong i would be greatful to have the correct info on this topic

The labor time on these includes pulling the front, removing the old engine, swapping the top end (intake, accessories, and recharging the A/C ) and reinstalling with test drive. Pays 20.1 hours. An experienced tech can do these in 8 complete. Let me know if you need any shop manuals.

The numbers for the HMMWV or M-998 should have been on a data plate on the dash or B-pillar (where the door latch is). Do you need a TM (Army shop manual)? What are you trying to get done. I will be happy to help in any way possible. The reason you can not find it is because they were designed to be repaired in the field if necessary to include frame rails, whole bodies and power trains.

10 hrs @ 72/hr

go to this site for detailed info, www.redhummer.com/myhummer/brakes/index.html hope this helps !

300 lbs. including the weight of the rack. Hope this helps.

A squared plus B squared = C squared.

there is probably a switch that can be depressed that will release the key and let you turn it off. i have seen this problem in Dodge vans and Toyota PUs. the operators manual will explain this if there is such a switch.

at the back of the pump where the high pressure line attaches. I'm not saying thats your problem, but thats where the valve is. I think if you disconnect it, it should have full boost.

either you have no transmission fluid, or your pump has failed. This one's not electrical.

have you checked alternator by disconnecting pos batterycable while car is on if it stalls ur alternator is no good

Is this a AM general H1 or GM H2 (your missing a # for vin)? For The GM version H2 the diagnostic plug will be under the drivers side dash board sometimes they put it on the passenger side. Should be a black 10-15 pin plug type connector just at the bottom of the dash, may have cover on it. A far as the wiring diagram yo will need to purchase a Chiltons/Haynes manual for $20 at your local Auto Zone for this info. As far as the H1 I will have to do some research as the diagrams are a little harder to come by and they were made by AM General..

ase labor chart shows 3.6 hours normal time for these repairs. avg actual time is 3.5 to 4 hrs and this includes pressure bleeding system.

check all of your fuses and give this website a try fix trouble shoot heating & A/C www.automedia.com and another one is www.directgardening and i hope i have been some help to you Michigan Man.

Not sure what this has to do with a car! LMAO Take fish oil capsules for your hair. And quit dying it!! The root is of no help.