20 Most Recent 2008 Hummer H2 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The gauge or sending unit could be bad, so you need to screw in a mechanical gauge once to verify.
Then there is the possibility they put in too thin of oil. Of you could have a leak letting pressure out, like a loose pump. Don't wait.

High side should never go over 300...Two things that you should fix first....
Check and make sure nothing is blocking the air flow though the condenser no or low air flow will cause high pressure...
Next, (Orifice Tube) you will have to remove all freon to get to it...It may be clogged, and will cause high pressure...
There are more things, but i think, these may correct the problem...Good Luck

Most likely BRAKE Fluid. !! Pull the wheels (one at a time if doing it yourself) and closely inspect the calipers and flex line to them and teh connections to the metal line which goes to the brake master cylinder.
Its worth taking to a brake shop for inspection. Quick look is usually free.
CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL BEFORE DRIVING FURTHER.

is the system charge sufficient? for hot air comjng from both sides very unlikely that both temp door actuators have gone bad at the same time. I would check to make sure the a/c clutch is working before going into the electronic controls in the dash.

When an inner c/v joint starts to go out it does exactly as you are describing. Often times all that is needed is to simply look under your vehicle, you may see a torn "boot"; the sealed rubber cover that goes over the constant velocity or c/v joint. These are found at each end of the half shafts. On your suv there are 4 shafts, one for each wheel. For each shaft you have two c/v joints one on each end, they are very simular to universal joints in that they allow for independant movement of the wheels and suspention. Please note c/v joints will only make noise for a short period of time then they break! The popping sound is metal-to-metal contact. You want to look for torn boots on the transmission side or inner side of the shafts. If on the back, on the sides closest to the differential.

Give some more details of the problem.

There is an insurance liability issue of you make this modification, and have an accident. You might want to consider having a shop make this modification. Your insurance may be void with this modification.

check your fuses, Tim

The servo unit is replaced.But it still indicates vacuum problem.Get the servo pressure, the master cylinder the brake pads, the servo air leak and servo suction checked.Bleed the brake lines, there is air.If servo unit vacuum pressure checked ok and there is no air block then its brake master cylinder problem.------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

What model Hummer?

sorry but i think you will need a garage to re-programme the remote for you so you may need a hummer agent in italy ??? perhaps if you try again with a question when the american time zone is daytime then a american mechanic might know how to do it ?? but iam in spain so i dont see many hummers ,fiats yes

Vibrations can be a result of many things other than tires. Below is a list of possible causes ranging from worn, broken, misaligned and broken parts.

1. Suspention components
2. Steering components
3. Hubs
4. Bearings
5. Transmission (low fluid or mechanical issues)
6. Unbalanced driveline
7. Rear differential (low fluid or mechanical issue)
8. Axles (bent, bad bearings, low fluid)
9. Bent rims

This will show that there are many mechanical issues that can contribute to the vehicle vibrating. You may want to check these items whether you do it yourself or bring it in. It could be a cheap and easy fix like balancing the driveling or it could be something more complicated like a transmission issue.

Good luck and i hope that this will point you into the right direction.

This is April the first and this has to be a joke! Are you the only people with Wi-Fi?
For a battery to go dead on you like that there must be something draining the battery while the vehicle is switched off. It could be something like a trunk light which is not switching off or a short across some circuit that does not show up on any light. The first and easiest test is to disconnect the battery negative cable whenever you park the vehicle overnight etc. and see if the battery still runs down.
As a more positive step and if this does not affect the alarm, disconnect the positive lead from the battery and wire a bulb like a tail light bulb, between the terminal and the removed lead. The bulb should light up. Make sure that everything on the vehicle is switched off, the bulb should still be lit. Remove and replace the fuses one by one until the bulb goes out. That is the circuit that is running your battery flat. Check all the components on that circuit until you get the light to stay out and your problem should be fixed.
Check your charging system. With the engine running at about 2000 rpm, a volt meter across the battery terminals should read around 14 to 14.5 volts and drop to about 13.8 volts with the engine at idle. If this does not happen, the charging system may be defective. Even with lights on the voltage should climb, but will drop lower at idle.