20 Most Recent 2007 Buick Lucerne CXS Sedan Questions & Answers

Very simple.

First hook up Positive Red and Negative Black terminals to the battery in the known good car. Then hook the Red terminal on the opposite end of the jumper cables to the positive Red terminal of the battery in the known bad car. Then, carefully, without shorting out the connectors, connect the final black jumper cable to the 'frame' of the known bad car.

Hope this helps.

to fix this problem with my 2007 buick lucerne I had to take off the bumper and then remove the old seal on the body under this bumper and reseal it. it was not the trunk seal and nor was it coming from the lights or anything else. it was this seal that you cannot see unless you remove the bumper.

Very good explanation and suggestions on the links below... https://www.obd-codes.com/p0300 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0443

Buick has punched holes in the rear of the car, behind the bumper. These hole were covered with a tape to prevent water from getting in. As car ages the tape comes loose and the spare tire well fills with water. NOW THE BAD NEWS. The rear bumper has to be removed to get access to the holes, for you to cover them. I recommend that you use Extreme Weather Foil Duct tape to cover them. (available at Home Depot)

Please follow this link to find the 2007 Buick Lucerne serpentine belt diagram: https://serpentinebelthq.com/2006-2011-buick-lucerne-v6-3-8l-serpentine-belt-diagram/

Not really., because the leak could very well be coming from the top or sides of the window and just running down, Call around to glass shops and explain they'll be able to give you a estimate. Also you could take to a nearby body shop and have them confirm your suspicions.

Hi. Check neutral safety switch on transmission. Look like is going bad for some reason. You may need scanner assistance but before that I would check that switch

front wheel bearing hub nut torque - 2007 Buick Lucerne CXS Sedan is 118 Ft. pounds

To change the headlight get under the car and reach up behind the bumper to change the bulb very easy took me 3min

The '07 CXL trimline does NOT have screws in the handle. As a matter of fact, there is only one screw, and it's behind a vanity plate in the inside door release cutout which is removed with a small screwdriver in the notch of the panel. This will give access to the phillips-head screw and you can remove it. There are quite a few clips which are two-part clips. Use a tool that will protect your finish and pry the door panel off starting at the front near the window. The small black triangle is part of the panel, so it comes off too, but be careful..it's not sturdily mounted to the panel, and you don't want to snap it off. I recommend having some extra clips on hand, as they are pretty fragile and prone to breaking...and NOT sold in auto parts stores.After you get around the bottom and up to the door lock button, you will have everything unlatched except for the two clips that hold the door pull handle on to the frame. At this point, pull the door panel slightly away from the frame and lift. the two metal clips are in plastic guides and the clips will disengage upon lifting. They will remain with the panel. You will have to squeeze them to remove them from their holes in the panel and place them back in the guides when you are ready to replace the panel.Replacing the panel is the reverse of removal..place your two door pull retaining clips back in their plastic guides on the door frame. They just slide on from the top. Then, after lining up your panel top in the groove, and making sure your door button is through the hole...make sure your two clips are lined up with the holes in the panel brace that they came out of, and then start re-seating the retaining fasteners. Start at the front on the small triangle, and work your way around, just like you did when separating them, making sure you have the guide pins and clips all in their respective holes before you smack the panel with a firm palm all the way around. After they're all done, you will need to give your panel a good shot in the middle to seat those two clips for the door pull. Now your door will have the same solid feel it did when it came apart. Check your fasteners one more time, then replace the screw behind the inner door release handle and snap the cover back into place.

Air Circulation When the heated/cool seat switch is pressed to initiate operation of the climate control seat (CCS) system, cabin air is drawn through the heated/cool ventilation module air filter, then directed through passages in the foam of the seat cushion and seat back to the seat's occupant. In order for the CCS system to operate to its optimum performance, it is crucial to have unrestricted air flow through the system. A dirty or restricted air filter, the blockage of an exhaust air duct, a misaligned heated/cool ventilation module, or incorrect foam installation of the seat cushion or seat back will all have negative effects on CCS operation. Heated/Cool Ventilation Module Each heated/cool seat has 2 ventilation modules, one located under the seat cushion and one located in the seat back. These modules are controlled by the climate control seat module (CCSM). Each ventilation module contains a thermo-electric device (TED), a temperature sensor, and a blower motor. The TED and temperature sensor are mounted downstream of the blower motor. Each TED consists of a circuit of positive and negative connections sandwiched between 2 ceramic plates. Each ceramic plate is equipped with copper fins for heat exchange. The air flowing past these fins is either directed as conditioned air into the seat cushion and seat back, or directed into the cabin as waste air. A TED is essentially a solid state heat pump that is used to heat or cool the air supply to the seat cushion and seat back. When voltage is applied to a TED, one side releases energy as heat, while the opposite side absorbs energy and gets cold. When the polarity of the current flow to the TEDs is switched, the hot and cool sides of the TED reverse. During the following climate control seat system description and operation, the TEDs, blower motors, and temperature sensors will be referenced independently even though they are all packaged together as a module. Climate Control Seat (CCS) System The CCS system consists of two heated/cool ventilation modules and one climate control seat module (CCSM) that controls both the driver and passenger heated/cool seats systems. The CCSM is mounted below the front passenger seat cushion. It receives power from both, battery positive voltage and ignition 3 voltage. Once a CCS system is activated, cabin air is drawn through the seat blower motors and directed across the fins of each of the thermo-electric device (TED) located under the seat cushion and in the seat back. The air is either heated or cooled as it passes over the TEDs. This conditioned air is then directed through channels in the foam of the seat pad and through small holes in the seat cover to the occupant. Once the system is activated, the CCSM uses a set of algorithms to control the temperature of the selected heating or cooling modes. Your best bet is to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop an have it diagnosed . DTC B19A4: Driver Seat Back Blower Speed Circuit High DTC B19A8: Driver Seat Back Blower Speed Circuit Short to Ground DTC B103D: Driver Blower Power Circuit DTC B272E: Driver Seat Back Blower Circuit Open DTC B19A3: Driver Seat Cushion Blower Speed Circuit High DTC B19A7: Driver Seat Cushion Blower Speed Circuit Short to Ground DTC B2729: Driver Seat Cushion Over Temperature DTC B19A2: Passenger Seat Back Blower Speed Circuit High DTC B19A6: Passenger Seat Back Blower Speed Circuit Short to Ground DTC B111D: Passenger Blower Power Circuit DTC B272F: Passenger Seat Back Blower Circuit Open DTC B19A1: Passenger Seat Cushion Blower Speed Circuit High DTC B19A5: Passenger Seat Cushion Blower Speed Circuit Short to Ground DTC B272A: Passenger Seat Cushion Over Temperature Driver and Passenger Heated/Cool Seats Inoperative

1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the C1 harness connector at the CCSM.
2. Test for less than 5 ohms between the ground circuit terminal M and ground.
?‡' If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.
3. Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal E and ground.
?‡' If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance.
4. Disconnect the C2 harness connector at the CCSM.
5. Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the ignition circuit terminal 1 and ground.
?‡' If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance.
6. If all circuits test normal, replace the CCSM.

Sorry

No,low fuel isn't your problem. If there's enough fuel for the fuel pump to pick up your car should run okay. You haven't ruined anything. It's not your fault. It is possible that a low fuel level - very low indeed - has allowed debris/dirt into the system and is causing a blockage. However, I think this is quite unlikely to be the problem you have. You say the car idles rough - does it drive at speed okay? If it drives okay at speed you can rule out most fuel problems .. most. Backtrack a bit .. has your car ever ran/idled roughly before? Cold weather can exacerbate a problem. It could be the cold weather- fuel and injections system have cold start devices or sensors of one sort or another. It may be a faulty sensor. Get somebody to do a diagnostic check for you

Please take a multi-meter or an ohm meter and see if you have voltage coming to the light. If not, suspect a bad door switch, as they are cheap plastic. If so, suspect a bad light bulb socket, same reason as above. God bless your efforts.

Hi David,here's a video showing how to replace your head light. Headlight Change 2006 2011 Buick Lucerne 2008 Buick Lucerne CXS 4 6L V8

"Tighten gas cap" means

1. That there is an air in-leak somewhere in the vapor recovery system of the car. Hoses and hose connections is a suspect place. So is the electric carbon canister vent valve. OR
2. It also can mean out of spec gasoline from the discount gas station.

If this was my car I would:

1. Top up with some decent gasoline.
2. Have the local shop clear the code and see if it comes back. Maybe do this several times until I am sure all the suspect gasoline is gone.
3. If it does, and as a last (expensive) resort, have the shop or dealer "smoke test" the emission system for leaks.

Good luck.

Check your fluid in your rad if it's ok could be a bad thermostat.