Top 20 2008 Lincoln Navigator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Against Federal EPA to let Refrigerant into the atmosphere Has to be recovered at a shop with the proper equipment You shouldn't be working on any type A/C without training & tools of the trade & in many cases a licence to do so

Is it like a light flashing at regular intervals or is it like a wire shorting irregularly? Check for loose connections or shorts.

Need the codes & more info to help you The APP (gas pedal) is very redundant & not likely a problem,nor is the throttle body I would check for Ignition Coil Misfires You change Spark Plugs every 3 years By now ALL your COP Coils are done & need replacing The 2005 had some problems with leaking injectors,so look at fuel trim The Front Oxygen Sensors should have been replaced at 100,000 miles Not doing what I have stated, will ruin your exhaust converter

check the open position stop sensor for a fault

Just do a Google search for the above term. There are some sites which have photos and a collage of diagrams to provide just what you want. Autozone also has a help section at the bottom of its' Webpage. You would register for free and toggle through the choices between free and pay sections.

These problems can cause by several different reasons, Engine needs air-fuel and sparks to keep running. Ignitions and fuel system inspections will be good place to start and if you have any engine warning light on your dash the best thing to get the code read out to get first idea what is causing the problems you have!!

how often do you use it if it isnt a daily driver it could be a clock etc. but if its a daily driver then chances are you have a bad wire the easiest but not so quick is to pull your fuses and hook up a voltage tester to the battery and one by one start to put the fuses back in and watch the tester to see what one is drawing the power other than clock then when you find it you will have to trace the wire checking for breaks cracks corrosion etc.

There is a pressure test port for the fuel on the fuel rail. A fuel pressure gauge will be needed. You did not include the Year of your vehicle. Some Years of production 2004-2008, I believe had engines with double overhead cams and an emblem showing DOHC on the top cover of the engine. Parts called "Cam Phasers" were defective over time. Timing is controlled by these phasers and you can imagine how poorly an engine can run if each bank has a different timing mark from the other. You can read some Articles about this on the Web. When you check your fuel pressure, there are a few possibilities. No fuel -check the Inertia switch. The crankshaft sensor can also affect fuel volume.

Are the battery posts and clamps clean? Also it may mean that the brushes in the alternator need replacing.

Check for any stored ECM that might be related, a local checker or Auto zone can help with a code pull.

Battery has no crank power,check battery connection.

there is nothing wrong with the timing chain position . Just a series of sensors that have gone outside the set parameters so if you check and change each one you will clear the faults.

Go to Google and enter "2002 Lincoln Navigator fuse10". You will be able to look up everything for the electrical system by selecting the individual pages and clicking them. What you would want to do is look up all the wiring "paths" to read if a component part may be shorting this fuse. When the individual components are eliminated as problems, then it must be a shorting wire. The plug-in connector for the fuelpump should be clean now, as you just had the fuelpump replaced. What I would look for as a problem are the other wires going into the Fuelpump Relay. Only 2 wires of the 4 prongs or so will make the pump work. Could be #27 and #34. Look on internet for "jumping the fuelpump relay" on Ford products. It would help to know if the fuse breaks when the vehicle is off, or when it is running. Reason being that the mentioned fuelpump Relay has 2 or more extra terminals that connect to other devices and they could be tested. Finally, most people think about a Relay connecting the Positive(hot) wire to transfer power. The fact is, the Negative(neutral) wire is also used to route power and connect the coils inside Relays. When you get a short on a Negative wire, it can falsely activate a Relay coil to connect something. This also means that shutting off the car will not necessarily shut off the power.

Are the dash buttons working, making the connection to turn it on? Is the fuse burned out? You can check this out on youtube too. The troubleshooting back to the compressor, to make sure there are no shorts in the wires and then the compressor it's self? If you have a vehicle that is under warranty, your best course of action is to go back to the dealership.

Page 13 of owner's manual says: AdvanceTrac (if equipped): Illuminates when the AdvanceTrac system is active. If the light remains on, have the system serviced immediately. AWD locked (if equipped): AWD Illuminates when all wheel drive LOCKED (AWD) is engaged/activated. If the light continues to flash, have the system serviced. Page 224: ALL WHEEL DRIVE (AWD) SYSTEM (IF EQUIPPED) Your vehicle may be equipped with an All Wheel Drive (AWD) transfer case. With the AWD option, power is supplied to all four wheels automatically with no need to shift between two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive. If your vehicle is equipped with the AdvanceTrac stability enhancement feature, you can change AWD modes, if desired, by selecting AWD options through the message center. For the lubricant specification and refill capacity of the AWD transfer case refer to Maintenance and specifications chapter. If your vehicle is equipped with AWD, a spare tire of a different diameter than the road tires should never be used. Such a tire could make the vehicle difficult to control as well as result in damage to driveline components. Utility and four-wheel drive vehicles are not designed for cornering at speeds as high as passenger cars any more than low-slung sports cars are designed to perform satisfactorily under off-road conditions. Avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers in these vehicles. The following sections, Normal operation, Autolock operation and Disabling AWD, apply only to vehicles which allow the driver to change AWD modes through the message center. Normal operation (vehicles equipped with AdvanceTrac During normal operation: • the AWD system is in AWD AUTO mode (AWD LOCKED will illuminate in the message center for four seconds when you first start your vehicle). The AWD LOCKED indicator in the instrument cluster will also come on. • AWD AUTO mode can be overridden by pressing SETUP in the message center. When you first press SETUP, AWD <AUTO> will be displayed, then if you press RESET within four seconds of pressing SETUP, AWD <LOCKED> will be displayed. AWD <LOCKED> provides power to all four wheels constantly which allows you to operate your vehicle in severe winter or off-road conditions such as deep snow, ice or shallow sand. It is not recommended that you use AWD <LOCKED> on dry pavement. Page 225: • AWD <LOCKED> can be cancelled by pressing RESET in the message center. (The AWD LOCKED display in the message center will then turn off and the display will return to AWD <AUTO> for four seconds when the shift is complete.) Autolock operation (vehicles equipped with AdvanceTrac If the AWD system begins to overheat, the system will place itself in the Autolock mode: • the AWD LOCKED indicator light will illuminate in the instrument cluster and AWD DISABLED <LOCKED> will be displayed in the message center. • AWD LOCKED will be displayed in the message center for four seconds and a warning chime will sound. This condition may clear without any action being taken by the driver. • the AWD LOCKED indicator light in the instrument cluster will turn off when the AWD system cools down. • When the system is sufficiently cooled down, AWD AUTO RESTORED will appear in the message center for four seconds and a warning chime will sound. Disabling AWD (vehicles equipped with AdvanceTrac When a problem is detected in the AWD system: • the AWD LOCKED indicator light in the instrument cluster will flash eight times every two minutes in the message center. • The message center will then display AWD DISABLED for four seconds, then SEE OWNER'S MANUAL. A warning chime will also sound. The warning displays and chime will continue until RESET is pressed (which will clear the message from the display). • AWD LOCKED can still be engaged by pressing SETUP (the message center will display AWD <DISABLED> LOCKED), then pressing RESET. The AWD LOCKED indicator light will illuminate in the instrument cluster and the message center will display AWD DISABLED <LOCKED>. • To disable AWD, press RESET. The system will go back to AWD AUTO mode momentarily, then the AWD LOCKED indicator light will flash in the instrument cluster eight times every two minutes. The display will then show AWD <DISABLED> LOCKED for four seconds and then turn off. Page 226: • If a serious problem occurs with the AWD system, the AWD LOCKED indicator light in the instrument cluster will flash 10 times every two minutes. The message center will also display CHECK AWD and a warning chime will sound. You can press SETUP to check the status of the AWD system (which will display AWD <DISABLED> LOCKED), but the AWD system will be disabled until the system is serviced. Driving off-road with truck and utility vehicles AWD vehicles are specially equipped for driving on sand, snow, mud and rough terrain and have operating characteristics that are somewhat different from conventional vehicles, both on and off the road. When driving at slow speeds off-road under high outside temperatures, use 1 (First) gear when possible. 1 (First) gear operation will maximize the engine and transmission cooling capability. Under severe operating conditions, the A/C may cycle on and off to protect overheating of the engine.

Have you checked the master cylinder for leaks and around the brake booster? You may have a bad brake light switch.

k loose or disconnected plug

Kind of confusing symptom description. If it did not start, it would not move. What I am guessing is the last time it ran, it shook and barely moved the vehicle. Then it would not restart. Moving on from there, there are at least 4 things to look at. The crankshaft sensor, the Cam Phasers, the fuelpump, and now the Inertia switch. You need to check for fuel pressure to eliminate fuelpump and Inertia switch problems as the cause. A scanner needs to be attached to your vehicle for some clue to what is wrong. Also think about your last gas station and if the problems started immediately after adding fuel. Your description can mean bad fuel.

check bulbs

with the symptoms you mention it sounds like you didnt get the timing chain correctly if you are off one tooth it wont run correctly