20 Most Recent 2007 Suzuki XL-7 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Look for big black tub goes to intake should be onside,near RPM cable.

Several possibilities. Are you sure the battery is fully charged? Good clean tight connections at battery? Have you tried jumper cables? If none of this helps, you may have a bad solenoid or starter. Where does the buzzing come from?

the check engine light is on, but it was on a long time before this issue occurred.

Any parts store should be able to get this. Try online if not. Suzuki Forum perhaps?

hub? what is a hub? the axle? what is bad, post bad first then ask questions. alldata.com or the FSM or only, 4$ bucks to look https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1158-2008-xl7-service-manual.aspx

It is mounted on the ABS pump assembly out near the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment.

wow no engine stated in an engine post.2.5/2.7 and my guess, 3.6 liter, 252 hp (188 kW) V6 ????sure, that is random misfire. there vast causes, each misfire is dejected by weak power from 1 or more cylinders.in this case, many.we find them by doing tests. with real tools. and meters.in physics its just about 3. compression, spark or fueling bad.300s means that all or most cylinders are misfiring, .

1. never getting a tuneup is top reason now for 100 years. endless story of folks not doing service. for sure at 60k miles.
2. bad spark. (opps see #1 )
3. lean or too rich air /fueling ratios. flooding or bogging lean , you never stated driving issues, hows it drive?????
4. EGR stuck open.,
5. CEL LAMP stuck on ,driver ignoring it?
6. Scan tool attached, and the mech fails to see lots of DTC errors, not just P0300.s ?
7. bad oxy sensor, in such a way that cause, #3
8. bad MAF sensor, not dead, just weak. or just needs cleaning.
9. Any illegal air leaks to this engine will cause lean outs.

so any mech would use his scan tool and look and PIDslive data.is engine getting to 180F OR MORE and holds,(ECT PID)is engine in closed loop at idle, yes/no,if no, fix that first.ok yes,is LTFT near 0, or most run about -5% is it?if LTFT is way off, or the car has over 100k miles, try 2 new oxygen sensors B1-S1 and B2, S1, to 2 top sensors, in gringo talk.or in tech talk, both upstream sensorsmy guess is its not the 02 oxy sensors. but is A/F wrongor bad sparkand #1 all time hit , is never ever tuned up..not in 7 long years.

old post still? check coolant levels first. not in side tank but in actual raditator neck. the sensors will not work with air pockets on top of engine cooling system.

the door, what door? look here https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1059-2006-grand-vitara-xl-7-owners-manual.aspx or alldata.com or buy a real FSM. there are like 5 diagrams. which one. windows. ? locks the door size draiwings. door card , removals. collision solutions. mirror service? all this is in the FSM the factory service manual, if serious diy , get one, and not wonder.

vacuum cleaner

triple posted, this time adding how. same answers.

double posted. leaving out how.

alldata.com login read,

spend 4 bucks? and RTM? https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10182-2007-xl7-service-manual.aspx

both out both stuck on one dead it blows the turn signal fuse. what?

timing of what, on what engine? cam? first post engine. cyl, count and size. the tell what you are doing. eg: im replacing a timing chain, or???? see????? we are blind here.

Hello! My experience is on a 2001 XL-7, but I would suppose there are similarities. In my experience, replacing the window motor requires also replacing the Bowden cables attached to it, at the very least. It is advisable to replace the whole unit -- motor, 2 cables, slider plate, curved metal guide channel. If only motor/cables are replaced, then the ball ends of the cables have to be carefully removed from the nylon housing where both the ends are positioned finally, making note of the holes through which the cables are threaded. (This would have to done away from the vehicle.) The replacement unit should be for the CORRECT LOCATION (e.g.: Front passenger-side). Procedure (be prepared for a lot of grease/grime on your fingers and arms!): DO MAKE SURE THE GLASS IS AT THE BOTTOM OF ITS TRAVEL. (1) Remove the door handle and other fittings, and then the door inner cloth/plastic panel (gently popping out about 8 snap-in plastic studs or pins around the edge). Note fine differences in size between different fasteners. (2) Carefully unplug the connectors for the lock and window controllers. (3) Gently remove plastic liner(s). If there are sticky 'beads' all around, the liner(s) can be reattached to them later. (4) Remove the screws/bolts that secure the glass to the mechanism. Carefully remove the glass, tilting as necessary, through the window opening. You should have an assistant help you here, both of you wearing gloves. Store FAR AWAY! (5) Unbolt the entire mechanism, noting the positions and sizes of the different fasteners. Remove the entire mechanism through the large(st) cut-out in the door's metal inner plate. (6) Install the new mechanism. Installation is the steps-in-reverse of dismantling. If the window mechanism became inoperational while the window-glass was in its uppermost position, it will still be possible to detach the inner panel, etc. But, ASSUMING YOU HAVE A COMPLETE REPLACEMENT UNIT AVAILABLE (the whole mechanism, including slider and curved metal channel), you would then have to reach inside the door with a cutter (the usual cutting pliers), find a section of the UPPER Bowden cable, and cut it. That would allow the glass and its supporting mechanism to come down, where the glass could be detached. I hope the guidance above helps. Of course, the actual field conditions may be different, so please use your best judgement! GOOD LUCK, and PEACE!

Hi John, The following link will show you how to get the door panel off correctly and replace a switch if needed to get you started. How To Remove Install Replace Rear Power Window Switch Suzuki XL 7 The next video discusses how to do it. How To Install Replace Rear Window Wiper Motor Suzuki XL 7 Here next is a version up to 06 including the window regulator. How To Install Replace Rear Power Window Regulator and Motor 2001 06... Just remember to subscribe to 1A Auto Shows for all your needs on You Tube. Fare. Well.

very old post. that code is in the FSM buy an FSM or log in to alldata.com and see true meaning, i believe this is unique to suzuki and only your car./engine and body. 3.6L v6 , the pregnant version of my 2.5L change the water pump on this engine sux.. big time. Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor "B" Number of Trips to Set Code: 2 Trouble Code Conditions: Difference between camshaft (bank 1 / exhaust side) position and crankshaft position is out of specified range. Possible Causes:

• CMP sensor
• CKP sensor
• Signal rotor
• Timing chain
• Timing chain tensioner
• CMP actuator
• ECM

loose chain? or the can be a dead (jammed) tensioner. if crazy loose it can skip a sproket tooth, do you ignore chain noise?

this A/T tranny and is called park lock out. there is an emergancy bypass lever there. ask for location or read the operators guide, if lost get one. keep it. i the glove box where it belongs. the park lock out repairs and diagnosis is covered fully in the FSM. read that. or log into alldata.com if no cash for books and still want to fix it by self then post back for the drawings and will need a voltmeter from walfart for $10 old post. if still stuck ask again.