2007 Dodge Durango Night Runner New Cars - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

fu8ses don't smell you are smelling burning plastic I have to ask where in the vehicle are you getting 12 Vots AC power as the entire vehicle is 12 volts DC If yo have some form of inverter attached to the wiring then that system will not be fused to get burning wires

All you need is a helper, with some one inside you go to the right rear wheel have them push the pedal down and keep pushing down until you say other wise, now you open the brake line bleeder it stops flowing then tighten it up. do this several times to push out the air. then go to the driver side rear and repeat this they push it down you open it and so on. be sure to keep refilling the fluid reservoir. do the same at the front lines.no special tools are needed. good luck.,

Locate the faulty sensor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the plug, use the special socket to remove the old sensor, apply anti seize lubricant to threads of the new sensor, install new sensor first hand tight then again use the special socket to turn it an additional quarter turn, connect the new sensor's plug and clear the fault code in the computer.

Suspect your booster valve failed open, but not sure the ABS system is working right either. You can test the booster by checking to see if it will do it again in park. If the booster is bad, you'll need to replace it. Then, I'd see if the lights will clear. If not, suspect ABS computer is bad, but I'm not an ABS expert.

2006 Durango turns over and won't start. After a few try's to get the vehicle started the vehicle will have no power. After sitting for a few minutes the vehicle will start. Has anyone experienced this?

2074 is a manifold pressure/throttle position correlation, high flow vaccum leak. Usually means the engine is getting too much air, and not enough fuel to even out the air/fuel ratio

I hope this helps

send me the last 9 of the vin and i will find it for you

1.6.5.4.3.2

this is the "check engine light". the engine control computer has set a fault code. there are a few hundred codes so you need to have it scanned.

If the problem persists stop by a tire shop. Most all of them have a scanner to check the sending units(aka valve stems) and see if one of them is sending a false
signal. Hope this helps.

NEED TO HAVE SOME ONE TO CHECK THE CODES,IT MAYBE THE CLOCK SPRING OR THE CRASH SENSOR

You are having an injector problem. The cylinder is not getting any fuel. No fuel no fire.

fuel filter replaced? try that. a fuel restriction could cause it

Experienced mechanics avoid that task.

If its a lite squeel and goes away when brakes are applied. Have you had front brakes put on recently. If you have and the rotors were not replaced and turned. Alot of mechanics don't do the final cross hatching on the rotors when they are done turning. This will barke in the pads wrong and cause this even with expensive pads. It will cause premature glazing and have a squeel that will drive you crazy.

may have a blown head gaskit

Make sure to remove any drit or other loose objects as, dropping obects in the holes can be hard to get out and you don't want to add dirt to your engine

Yep,I'd agree. The difference in coldness is unrelated to the compressor issue. That a bad vent motor or something like that on the heater box in front. Change the "h" valve or otherwise known as the "expansion" valve too.

acid based wheel cleaner will work,but once the coating is removed the wheels will start oxidation and will not look good.suggest a high temp clear coat on dry clean wheel multiple thin coats

check the throttle position sensor connector known for letting moisture in and causing false reading to be sent to the computer i worked at a dodge dealership for 8 yrs doing driveability