2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It is a bit dangerous providing information where you only include the year, the make and the c.c. of the engine. They all have model names and they all have engine designation codes. Here is a start. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+chevy+4.8+cylinder+head+torque+specs ..

Diagrams in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Chevy+Silverado+ignition+switch+wiring+diagram ..

First, align the slim jim with the lock and push it inwards in the direction of the keyhole when the lock is visible - pull the slim jim upward slowly until the door unlocks.

Get solution for this online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc

Its the switches themselves..sometimes you can disconnect the wires, then reconnect them and they might work..( I did this to mine..surprise - they worked.?.) If they do not work after reconnection.. its new switch time..

Which sensor? They are replaceable. Do not trust that dealership.either they don't know what they are talking about or they are a rip off. Drive it untill light comes back on and go to a auto parts store. They can pull the codes. Write them down and google the codes and watch some videos on how to do it yourself. Get the part you need and replace it yourself.

You need to have the codes read when this hapoens. It's possible they may be stored. The re is no way to diagnose this issue with out the codes to point you in the right direction.

A diagnostic tester will do that.

code p 0690 refers to ECM power relay control--sense circuit high====causes wiring short to positive--ECM relay---ECM The ECM relay will be in the collection of relays next to the battery

Takes an electrical diagram, volt meter, and a bit of time to figure out. Check other fuses that should have voltage with the key on. If there's no power to them, then it would be the ignition switch. If there is, then a broke wire would be the cause.

The fuse gets it's power from the fuel pump relay , located in the under hood fuse/relay box. An the ECM- engine computer energize the relay . This does not mean the relay is bad ,Because you have no B+ at the fuse. The thing to do is test for B+ voltage at pins 30 an 86 while cranking the engine . The relay position will be given on the under side of the lid for fuse/relay box. Pull the relay an look at the bottom ,pins side or terminals ,what ever you would call them . Each terminal is marked with a number 30,87, 85 ,86 . The ECM will only energize the relay when it receives a message from the BCM - body control module , with no anti-theft system problems . Do you have a pad lock an car symbol lit on the instrument cluster ?

Look between the grille and the radiator on the center post for the radiator support, there should be one and then another under the hood on the drivers side.

run the fault codes as what you have replace may not be the reason that the limp mode was activated

Hi Travis,here's a link for you to see,if not it,go into details more and I will send it to you. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Components Cylinder Head AutoZone com

Not sure what you are asking here but the turn signal assembly where you move the arm to turn left or right is in the steering column. The power unit should be attached to the fuse panel it will be the large round alum. looking relay. Hope this helps.

don't know this vehicle specifically but on many cars the rear seat base is held on with a clip on each side. Grab the seat at the front bottom, push back/down, then pull up. Same for other side. Once the base is out there is often a bolt on each side holding the seat back on. Take out the bolt and lift the seat back up.

If you have a lock not working it is more than likely the complete door latch which contains the door lock actuator. Sold as a unit. Common problem for the door locks to become inoperative.

I think the part is called the blend door actuator. 1.You have to remove the plastic cover on passenger side. Motor is located over the transmission hump. 2. Remove wiring harness plug. 3. Remove 3 hex head screws. You need a small 1/4 socket set.

There are a lot of good videos on YouTube to help with this. Although most are for the 5.3L engine the process and procedures are the same. The hardest and most time consuming part is removing the top cover and all the air induction tubing. As long as you have the time, skills and patience to do your own work this is not a terribly difficult task. With hourly rates as high as $125 hr I do all my own maintenance and use YouTube videos all the time. This one will give you a good idea of what's involved. Good luck! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IrL0VtxcC4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T56CZ4hPdrk

Since the engine light is back on the code is likely to help you diagnose the problem. 1. If you have a code reader for your car plug it in and it should tell you what the computer thinks the problem is. Remember for the engine to miss it has to be loosing fuel or spark. The spark plugs are only one of the parts required to make a reliable spark in the plug as the engine is running. 2. Check the spark plug wires and the distributor internal for rust contamination around the reluctor magnet area. The 4.3 chevys are bad for this. Have someone start the car for you at night while you look under the hood for spark leakage. In the dark any wire leaking spark enough to make it miss on acceleration will flash blue lights in the dark. 3. Replace the fuel filter. 4. Check for vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing plugged in to the intake manifold. 5. Make sure the battery to engine ground cable is in good condition at both ends and tight. 6. Make sure the battery to chassis ground wire is connected clean and tight. Good luck.