20 Most Recent 2008 Chevrolet Equinox - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop that has the diagnostic test equipment to find the problem .

firstly - your symptoms are not directly associated to any brake "failure". The noise is likely related to either a faulty sensor for the abs, the signal/information going to the abs controler is incorrect (not your basic brake function. If your ABS light comes on it is just telling you that the ABS system has been switched off. ABS is there for emergency situations. Your can still has brake function like you had befoore ABS was introduced. You have no need to be concerned as emergency stopping with normal brakes about town would rarely engage ABS. Your dealer "interogates" the ABS controler for fault reports. However, the fault needs to be apparent for this fault report to work. keepit until the ABS light comes on. WITHOUT switching the engine off take it straight to your dealer. switching of may dumpt the fault report so DON'T. Hope this helps.

Assuming that you feel and hear the engine smoothly accelerating while the stutter occurs, you are probably looking at transmission. Torque converter? possibly. A full diagnostic of the transmission is certainly in order as there are a number of things that might cause that condition.

Take to a qualified repair shop an have the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code ! Do you know what DTC'S are .

Try a window ,see if they still work too . RAP relay supply's power for radio windows etc. when key is turned off for ten mins or till a door is open .

Fuel, compression and spark. Check the above. If you have adequate fuel pressure, reasonable compression and a good spark the engine should start. It may also be a good idea to check for compatibility with your engine control module between a 2008 model year and the 2005 model years.

c0040 right front abs sensor. P0300 random or multiple misfire. p0303 cylinder 3 misfire this code P0300 and this one p0303 will be the same problem as they both same coding. C0040 it can be the cable is cut or the sensor is defective.

I had the same problem with my radio. I replaced the 15 amp fuse. Located in passenger side fuse box. For some reason it wasn't blown, but worked when I put a new one in.

Take the bolt out completely.

Mass air flow sensor maybe ! Be nice to know what data sensor parameters are . Do you know what these are ? Your vehicle has a number of sensors that supply the engine computer with data ,signals what ever you call it ! Do won't to get to technical on you . Your engine has crank sensor , cam sensors , coolant temp sensors , intake air temp . sensor , manifold pressure sensor , throttle position sensor etc.... They have a voltage coming from the PCM/ECM - engine computer , an they send another voltage back to the computer . With progamming inside the computer it knows from these voltage signals what the temp. of the engine is etc.... With a proper scan tool you can see what the computer inputs are . Even a bad coolant temp sensor could cause the problem your having .

There are three relays for the cooling fan's , two of them . And all three are located in the under fuse/relay box. Watch this training video on how they work an how to test them. Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics

OK, 1st mistake....NEVER POWER WASH A ENGINE!!!!, you may steam clean , but never use a power washer. What you have done to it now can be any number of things from breaking wires for the starter to having water in the electrical, Alternator or other places. At this point, try taking a hair dryer to all of the electrical connections under the hood or put a torpedo heater near the front end and hopefully the heat will dry out the affected connection. Be very careful now...make sure you check you oil for water, DO NOT START the car before you make sure water didn't get in the oil.

https://s1.postimg.org/w2rgr091b/bcm.jpg Click on the link, hope it helps.