2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab Laramie - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
Why cant I get the rear rotor off my 2007 dodge 3500
Being a 3500, I'm guessing it's a dually? The axle MUST be removed to take the rotor off. Remove the 8 bolts on the axle flange, then carefully remove the axle. Behind where it was, you'll find a snap ring. Remove that and pull the key block out. Using a brass punch to knock it loose, unscrew and remove the spanner nut, then the outer wheel bearing. After you do all that, you can remove the rotor.
Third eye works no rear signal or brake lights
The high mount brake light gets its own signal from the brake light switch (on the brake pedal). Or at least the wire leaving the brake light switch will splice, one wire to the high mount brake light, and the other for the rear brake lights is routed through the turn signal switch, and coordinated there with the turn signal wires to the rear brake lights. The brake wires and turn signal wires share the same wire, and same filament in the bulbs. It is kind of complicated, but brakes applied with no turn signal, brake light wire goes from brake light switch through the turn switch and out to the bulbs. If brakes applied with turning signal, non blinking brake light wire goes from turn switch to rear light, while the turning signal wire will go through the flasher relay, and then to the rear light to cause blinking.
I hope that makes sense. It appears the problem may be in the turn signal switch for both the turn signals and the rear brake lights.
Cannot remove rear half of front hub on 2007 Dodge ram 2500 4X4, 4 mounting bolts already removed, front half oh hub removed
OK I have one of these trucks and those hubs are a pain in the buttt big time. Tried changing an axle joint but couldn't get the hub off. Finally after 2 days gave up and took the truck to the dealer. I watched them take it apart. There is a special tool. Put the four bolts back into the hub from the axle side. They should all be loosened but not out of the hub. Take a deep socket that fits the bolt head. Fill the socket with nuts so that you can just fit the hub bolt head in it too. with the axle on stands and both front wheels in the air, the socket on one of the bolts. ( not sure how to get the socket to stay on, maybe a few wraps of tape around the head of the bolt) start the truck and turn the wheels, lock to lock. Get out move the socket to another bolt on the other side and repeat. when youve done all four bolts this way , take all bolts a few turns ( equal distance) and repeat the process. The hub will be pressed out by the socket pushing against the axle tube. At least that's what they did at the dealership.Good luck. Let me know how it works.
How to properly remove motor
pulling a motor is the last resort so can you give more information as to why this motor is a lemon. To often I read on this site advice from repair shops that say" better get a new motor or gear box " simply because they see a punter in view and a quick buck.. You say that you are not rolling in cash so the next motor may not be much better than the one you have . So if you have the time to write in the comment box tell us what is making it a lemon and be guided by any advice you receive as it may surprise you as to what the fix may be
Have no signals and brake lights 3500 2007
Get a test light probe so you can see where power is getting to starting at the fuses under the hood. All the fuses there should have power getting to them even with the engine off.
When the lights on dash are on it says fuse is blown but when i check they are all ok
Just in case: If you've checked all the fuses in the main fusebox, you may not have checked all the fuses in the car! Unfortunately, there are sometimes auxiliary fuseboxes under the dash, possibly even under the bonnet/hood. I can think of two other possibilities: a) the car diagnostics circuit that measures the resistance of fuses to determine if they are blown, has itself developed a fault. b) A fuse is on the limit - it'll probably blow soon but is currently high resistance so the diagnostic unit is seeing it as blown. The only way to check this is to go through them one at a time with a very low range ohmmeter :{{Oh, and some dashboards have a fuse on board for the lights, and some headlight systems have fuseholders near the headlights themselves.Sorry, I don't know your vehicle so can't be more specific but hope this helps.
Ever heard of a transmission overheating enough to cause fire?
It is very unlikely that the transmission would over heat enough to cause a fire anywhere in the passenger compartment. If in fact there was a fire in the passenger quarter panel area there are two things that would be the cause. Either wiring behind the kick panel became shorted and caused the fire or the exhaust became extremely overheated and caused the fire.
Exhaust fumes in cab at stop light.
I would suggest taking this to the dealer....it could be coming through the a.c. vents. Since its a brand new truck....let them **** with it.
Replaced the fan clutch, thermostat, radiator cap,
Did you check your radiator and make sure that some cooling fins aren't clogged. One trick I use is to use a laser thermometer and go across the fins to see if there is large differences in temperatures on the fins (which indicates a partial clogging condition).
You might also want to test if you are getting the right indication from the sensors. One client came in that said he had done EVERYTHING that could cause overheating so we measured the actual temperature and it was no where close to overheating!
I cannot charge the A/C.
you need to 'bridge' the terminals on the schrader valve (low pressure cutoff) to force the compressor to run. It should be located on the receiver/dryer, carefully strip a small section of insulation on the two wires just above the connectors, and bridge them with a piece of wire-when compressor runs, the freon will be drawn from the can into the suction port.
Not finding what you are looking for?
this is for onje without ac,
