20 Most Recent 2008 Audi S5 Coupe - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I would suggest checking all the wiring from the battery to the starter solenoid and the battery to earth. (car body) Also the small wire to the solenoid from the ignition switch. A poor connection may cause intermittent starting.

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By 2009 the car had stopped being a car and became a wheeled computer - a fully digital thinking machine, therefore it is best to research first and then proceed slowly. It is possible the battery has a failing cell resulting in a rapidly falling battery voltage, fooling the brain into thinking a door has been opened. Alternatively, the brain might think a door has been left open if one of the switches or wiring has failed. Switches to supply information to the brain are often buried inside the door catches. I once encountered a car with a maladjusted door that had prematurely worn the striker that then failed to enter the door catch sufficiently to operate the switch. Another switch was buried in the bonnet (hood) catch. Clearly it hadn't seen an oilcan since day one...

Spray some starting fluid / ether into the throttle-body assembly, before attempting to start. Also make sure the battery is fully powered up. The old gas thats been there for a year won't help make the starting any easier, unless if its got fuel stabilizer in it. Add some new gas in there as well. Hope it helps.

Put in a CD cleaner and run it for a while (minute or so!)

Cylinder head bolt are 60 nm then a 90 Degree turn, Main bearing bolts are 30 nm then 180 degree turn and connecting rods are 30 nm then 90 degree turn.

The key lock barrel should still be physically connected to the drivers door lock. So manually unlock your car with your key and enter it that way.
From there you can pop your bonnet/hood and you should be able to charge your battery or jump start etc from there.

There may come a time when you try to start your vehicle...and nothing happens. In those situations, a dead or discharged battery is often the culprit. There are a couple of ways to check: If the starter clicks or makes no sound, and the headlights are dim or don't turn on at all, chances are it's the battery. Thankfully, jump-starting a vehicle is easy. All it takes is a set of jumper cables and another running vehicle, and you'll be on your way. Before you start There are a few things you should do before starting step 1:

• Read the safety, jump-starting, and roadside emergency information in your owner's manual
• Have your roadside assistance number handy

Locate a pair of color-coded jumper cables and a wire brush for removing battery terminal corrosion

Find each vehicle's battery: They can be under the hood or in the trunk

Remove any metal jewelry like rings or bracelets to avoid accidental shocks while working near the battery

Don't disconnect the disabled battery-it could damage the vehicle's electrical system

1. Move the boosting vehicle close to, but not touching, the vehicle with the dead battery so the jumper cables can connect without being taut. Put both vehicles in Park or Neutral, turn off their ignitions, and set their parking brakes. Turn off or unplug all power-draining items: lights, electronic accessories, and portable devices plugged into auxiliary outlets.
2. Open the hood or trunk and remove any battery terminal covers. If you see chalky corrosion on the terminals, remove it with a wire brush terminal cleaner.
3. Clamp the red positive (+) cable onto the disabled vehicle's red positive (+) battery terminal.
4. Next, connect the other end of the red positive (+) cable to the booster vehicle's red positive (+) battery terminal.
5. Now connect the black negative (-) clamp to the booster vehicle's black negative (-) battery terminal.
6. Connect the other end of the black negative (-) cable to a large, unpainted metal surface in the disabled vehicle's engine bay, away from the battery and the engine itself. Make sure the cables are clear of any moving parts.
7. After a final check, start the booster vehicle. Then try to start the disabled vehicle: Usually it will start right up, but it may need to charge for a few minutes before starting. Once it starts, allow both vehicles to run connected for about three minutes.
8. Without turning off the jump-started vehicle's engine, disconnect the cables in the reverse order that they were attached, and close the hoods/trunks.
9. Allow the jump-started vehicle's engine to run for several minutes. Depending on how discharged it is, the battery may not be able to start again under its own power, so keep it running until you reach your destination.
10. Visit your local Ford Dealership as soon as possible to get the jump-started battery tested or replaced.

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More than likely the stater motor is knackered,but if it's a manual drive you should be able to push start,in second gear.

grab cable with pliers and pull until you get a replacement handle

You should reset it by OBD check

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Right... ignition off. Keep battery connected.
Procedure:

The way I would do this is to find the fuel filter (not sure where this is on a TT, but will probably require jacking). disconnect the inlet hose and feed that into a fuel safe container/s (size and number dictated by how much fuel you need to pump) with some additional hose.
Alternatively, you can locate the supply hose from the pump itself (probably under the rear seat), or at the engine (though if you are pumping due to contaminated fuel, you will soak the filter with the contaminant, so if you're going to replace the filter anyway...).

Now find the fuel pump fuse.

- At this point, if you can locate the fuel pump relay, you can unplug it and jump the connectors across the relay to energise the fuel pump. Keep the fuel pump running until you have emptied the tank.

- If you cannot locate the fuel pump relay, unplug the fuel pump fuse, and supply 12V to the downstream side of the fuse (left side I think this is). 12V can be supplied via the cars battery, (via a jump wire, or permanent live supply at the fuse box) or by a spare battery or jump pack, but you will need to earth to the cars frame or earthing point.
Run the pump until the tank is empty.

You can also put a toggle switch in line on the supply wire to better control the pump.
And whilst down there, renew the fuel filter.


You could perhaps try a siphoning or pumping from the filler cap, but Audi anti siphoning fillers can be quite good. To get the tank as empty as possible, the fuel pump is your best bet

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Get your aircon fixed - regas or orifice tube etc...

At running temperature, the temperature gauge should show a relatively constant 90°C.
The actual temperature will vary between about 80°C and 105°C and can be seen more accurately using the climate control hidden settings or via OBD using VCDS, OBD eleven etc...