2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic SS New Cars - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try checking the basics first. Get a good close look at all the connections to see if they're corroded or dirty. Next, where you can follow the wires from end to end to look for nips, cuts and breaks. Check inside the head lamp and check for condensation. There is a relay in the circuit as well which switches from low to high beam. Get this checked as well. Might be worth just replacing it as they aren't that expensive.

Just had this happen today to my 2007 silverado heat on the right side cold air on the left side. After engine was off 15 minutes and restarted heat was on both sides. I'm guessing a relay failed to open door to allow the heat to flow thus blowing cold air.will monitor diligently for a while.

Go on line to a company called HELM .So its Helm .com They print the factory manuals for most of the big boys .with a Chevy you might need 2 but their 50 bucks a pop and you will be able to look up and thing about your vehicle and never to ask anyone again .

Go to autozone website and make a free account, pun in the year, make and model and look for the free repair guides and the electrical systems. If they don't have it you can use the link to ALLDATA but that is not free.

Rarely does it happen, but the plug for the DIC has come loosened or just fell off. You have to remove the instrument panel(IP). Take it apart to check. Most times the problem is a bad solder joint.

Requirements

The theft lock radio must be in "LOC" mode.

Procedure:

1. Turn the ignition ON (The radio should display "LOC") 2. Hold down the Radio Presets 2 and 3 buttons for six seconds 3. The radio display changes from LOC to a three-digit number. Write this number down. You now have fifteen seconds to complete the next step. 4. Press the AM/FM button 5. The radio display changes to another three-digit number. Write this number to the right of the first one. 6. You now have a six-digit number, the first three digits are from STEP 03 and the last three digits are form STEP 05 7. Call 1-800-537-5140 8. Press 1 then # (pound). You'll hear "Invalid Code, try again" 9. Press 139010 or 106010 or 206010 or 202107 then # (pound). You will be asked to enter your four or six digit code followed by * 10. Enter the number from STEP 6 then * 11. Listen to the four-digit number and write it down. It will be repeated twice 12. Turn the ignition ON (The radio displays LOC) 13. Use the MN and HR buttons to enter the code from STEP 11 14. Press the AM/FM button. The radio display changes to "SEC". Your radio is now "un-locked" and usable.

Front brake rotors are warped, time to do a brakes job, make sure calipers float on pins and that you replace rotors, aftermarket are cheaper than G.M. but hold up just as well, change pads and lube the slides in calipers

I am not sure if this will help but try locking the doors without the remote and then use the door key to unlock the door and start the truck this is just an idea but it worked on my daughters car

firat of all check and make sure you have a real good ground or otherwise you will lose current to another wire and this can short out and cause the lights to malfunction.

White: Ground
Brown: Running
Yellow: LT and Stop
Green: RT and Stop

This is the wiring code for the 4 wire trailers and
Wire a round seven-pin hitch, typically sold without a wiring harness, to the vehicle observing the following color codes: Run a white 10-gauge wire between ground and terminal one, run the blue 12-gauge wire between the electric brake controller and terminal two, the brown 14-gauge wire between the taillights and terminal three, the black 10-gauge wire between the permanently live 12-volt supply and terminal four, the yellow 14-gauge wire between the left turn/brake light and terminal five, the green 14-gauge wire between the right turn/brake light and terminal six and the purple 14-gauge wire between the backup light and terminal seven (in the center).

go into the DIC on the dash and enable remote start in opions.

the light is only coming on when the pcm is detecting the problem. in other words, your problem is not acting up all of the time. needs to be diagnosed and repaired though, as these problems don't heal up by themselves , and tend to get worse. all silverados do not have remote start. that is an add on.

The following steps must be completed before using the symptom tables:

Review the system operation in order to familiarize yourself with the system functions. Refer to Horns System Description and Operation.

Visual/Physical Inspection

• Inspect for aftermarket devices (Alarm System if applicable) which could affect the operation of the horn system.
• Inspect the easily accessible or visible system components for obvious damage or conditions which could cause the symptom.
• Perform the following if a horn buzzes or has a harsh tone:
• Inspect for debris in the joint where the horn fastens to the vehicle.
• Test the torque of the horn mounting hardware. The horn mounting hardware should be tightened to a torque of (7 lb ft) .

Intermittent
Faulty electrical connections or wiring may be the cause of intermittent conditions.

Symptom List
Refer to a symptom diagnostic procedure from the following list in order to diagnose the symptom:

• Horns Always On

HORNS ALWAYS ON

TEST DESCRIPTION

The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.

1. This step tests if ground is constantly being applied to the horn relay.

If you are unable to preform checks your self you can pull the horn fuse/relay and take it to a mechanical shop for diagnoses
the under hood fuse box diagram is below .. pull number 37 Horn relay



Good Luck hope this helps

Call or you may have to go down to the closet Chevrolet dealership with the VIN number for the vehicle. Have them make a key. I key may need programming if the system has a PK#, but it will at least open the trunk

open door pull ruber boot back on door side unplug wire connections snap lock release on con pull pins pull door

the magic fairy appears to be at work ,if its not leaking then its burning it ,which means valves guides or rings are worn ,and with your enviromental disaster monster engine you would not notice the loss in power in such a small vehicle ,we pull 40tons of loaded truck here with a smaller engine in europe

Follow the wire harness down to the junction box were the wire harness plugs into under the truck adn ck for corrosion especialy if you live in a snowy area corrosion due to road salt.

Call the Chevy dealer, even if you didn't buy it new or there. Also, and I learned this from experience, once an AC/Delco battery has been run down, they very often never work right again. I have bought 3 replacement batteries over the years because AC/Delco batteries are junk (fine unless you run them down).

1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.

Shift suddenly become very hard. When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are also harsh. All gears seems to work. Problem may be intermittent: Check TPS for smooth electrical response. If the response is jumpy or erratic at all, replace TPS.

Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Easy fix in pan. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.

Visit a transmission shop and have them put a line pressure gauge on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).

Here is just a few things that are common to what you have described, I would start checking the Wire leads to the TPS and TPS it self. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to know you got your Transmission running 100% again.

It's a safety feature. For example, if there is no oil pressure when you start the engine, you could not see that unless you were in the car and could spin a bearing or seize the engine by starting it remotely and letting it run unattended. So when the check engine light is on, there is something not working properly with the engine/engine management system and it wants you in the car where you can see the guages and turn the engine off immediately if there's a serious problem.

check for 12 volts present at pin number 16, go to link for picture.
http://westersgarage.eidnet.org/obd2.doc