2008 Subaru Outback - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The code number would be helpful, but on occasion the code will be the same for the O2 sensor, Cat, canister and the gas cap.

Check the antenna connections.

For the last couple of decades a car has changed from being a car and has become a wheeled computer - while it is still possible to tackle some traditional repairs and maintenance when things make sense, when something makes no sense it is difficult to know whether the cause is old-fashioned or the computer having a stroke, developing dementia, a sudden case of amnesia, being in a playful mood or possessed by something unworldly... Currently, due to the meanness of the manufacturers the best and possibly the only path to discovering why this is happening is a laptop with some expensive and fairly exclusive software and an experienced person to operate it...

Seen this "mystery drain" many times. Check spark at the battery to see how big the drain is. For this simple test, blow away any (explosive) battery charging fumes. Leave one terminal on and gently touch the other to its post in fairly dark surroundings. Then try it again with the wires taken off the alternator. Your spark is now probably much less. Usually bad diodes leaking electricity backwards through the alternator cause this drain. Replace the alternator or the diode pack inside it. Some mechanics recommend actually measuring the drain.... hahaha. OK whatever.

you can fix it some just pull out and some you need a wrench then the wires just pull off by a new one first

bad ignition switch,answer 2

clean the ir sender on the remote,check for short curcuit in door wiring,or ignition switch is going bad(security module on ignition switch)

you might find the instructions for changing your cabin air filter will help. Look it up at cars101 DOT com .

There\'s a blockage in the secondary tube (about 15mm diameter) that runs down to the tank, adjacent to the main filler tube. Take the back wheel off and you\'ll see a plastic cover over the whole filler neck assembly. The secondary tube often rust and fills with dirt. The tube can get damaged too, if crushed the gas will spit back.

if this is a manual clutch operation then check hydraulic fluid level( bleed out air) cable system check for broken failed clutch cable.

Anything can be fixed.. look closley at it and determine what is keeping it from closing.. If it is too broken you can probably get one at low cost from a salvage yarg.

Could be IAM sensor beside TPS.Change air filter and clean throttle body first add fuel cleaner to gas tank.

Firstly, there MUST be a reason it is low---damaged/prang/changed the bulb yourself/why is it low ?---they don't slip & slide ! Finding the reason may fix the issue------Generally, open the bonnet (at night time, with lights on, not too close to and level with & facing a wall or clean flat surface---to see where BOTH lights are aimed)---Behind the reflector---the light fitting you will generally see several long threaded legs, with knurled, plastic nuts/wheels---so they can be readily turned---to adjust the light.---Mark a spot on the flat surface where the low light is shining---you should be able top see the top edge of the light---blank off the OK light, so that there is no confusion as to what you are seeing on the flat surface----carefully turn the wheel/screw in what should be the logical direction, to raise the focus line of the light---In RHD countries (driving on the L)---the L light is generally aimed slightly higher than the R---to avoid glare into oncoming drivers eyes---ensure you don't have the top of the beam above centre---Hold a stick / measure/length of timber/ect, vertically, close to & in front of the light and mark the centre of the light beam----move the marked piece away from the car to the flat surface, ensure vertical and ensure the beam focus is BELOW the mark on the marked piece---test drive for effect---re-adjust if not OK

We do not have access to repair manuals because this material is copyrighted. You can buy access here.

more then likely a short . Find power wire and run it elsewhere from switch

could be a fuse ??

Every time the clutch kicks in on air condition it takes more amps from the alternater therefore the sensor idles up the engine to provide more speed on the pully that inturn provides more amps from alt.

There are a few items to check: Fuses [ should be listed as stop, or brake light ] there's a reason if blown, Bulbs [ they have an average life span, you may have 2 that happened to burn out at the same time ], Wireing [ may have a cut or broken wire in a harness in the rear or a trailer light harness problem if equiped.]

P0420 Usually indicates a bad catalytic converter or a bad oxygen sensor. Since you car is 2008 my money is on the oxygen sensor. Or it could be something as simple as an exhaust leak. The cruise control will keep flashing until you get the CEL fixed

• Not to bad. Outback is a good vehicle. With so many miles and it only being a 2008 I am inclined to think this was a highway traveled vehicle more than in town. This is good because highway miles is far better on a vehicle than in town miles. Some maintenance you need to either confirm has been done or inspected to see if it needs to be done. May also have some warranty with it to but warranties often do not cover preventative maintenance.

1. Transmission flush - 20,000 miles
2. Transmission Filter - 50,000 miles
3. Radiator flush. - 30,000 miles
4. Air filter. - As needed.
5. Oil change. - 3 months or 3,000 miles - usually right away with new vehicle.
6. Emissions clean. - 25,000 miles
7. Brake inspection. Right away with new vehicle.
8. Serpentine belt - 50,000 miles inspect often.
9. Alignment check - Check is often free.
10. Tires.

Regards, Tony