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My 2008 Chrysler town and
Unless you can find a local mechanic who is very familiar with this problem, it is most likely you will need to take this to a Chrysler dealer, as it is either a computer problem or an electronic problem. God bless your efforts.
on Oct 05, 2017
2008 Town and Country air
when an ac unit that is working well in the cooler parts of the day but fails when it is hot , it is indicated that there is excessive gas in the system
ac gas is not added by the can but by reading the pressure on 2 gauges
one connected to the inlet side of the compressor and the other to the high pressure side of the compressor ( there are forums where gas has been added by the can that has resulted in hose failure and compressor damage)
it works like this ac liquid gas is released in to a low pressure area in the evaporator ( under the dash) and the heat of the car boils the liquid off. That makes the air cold
the gas is then sucked in by the compressor and converted back to a liquid in the condensor in front of the radiator
there the heat from the compression of the gas is removed by the condenser fan and the liquid is then sent back to the evaporator
If you have excessive gas in the system it cannot be compressed back to a liquid (too much heat in the gas to transfer to the air)and so the high pressure side safety switch turns the compressor off to prevent damage
hence no cooling in the hottest part of the day
as to you statement about the amount of water on the road
If the humidity is 14-20 % there is very little water vapor in the air for the evaporator to remove and so there will be little water separated from the air in the car
AC units cool the air in a car by removing the water vapor (humidity) from the air in the car ( humidity is what makes you sweat and feel uncomfortable as you will know when it is 80% or higher )
using an a c along with the heater ( climate control) is the quickest to defog a windscreen
So have the ac tested for correct pressure by a professional accredited ac shop
on Mar 21, 2017
2008 TOWN AND COUNTRY VAN still miss fire after changing wire, plugs and coil pack
Misfires and Their Causes
An ignition system problem is one of the most common reasons for an engine to misfire. As the spark plugs, ignition cables, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil wear over time, their ability to transfer the needed spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture inside the combustion chambers becomes compromised. In the early stages, the spark will only be weaker and the actual misfire will be subtle. As the ignition components continue to wear, the misfire will intensify and the combustion process can be interrupted completely. This will cause a severe jerk or shock in the operation of the engine (the engine may even backfire through the air intake system, producing a loud "pop").
Lean MisfireThe lean misfire is another common reason for an engine "miss"-this is due to an imbalanced air/fuel ratio (too much air/too little fuel). Since an engine needs a richer (more fuel) mixture for a smooth idle, this problem may be more noticeable when the vehicle is idling. The lean misfire may decrease or disappear as the engine speed increases because the efficiency of the volumetric flow into the combustion chambers increases dramatically. This is one reason why a vehicle gets better mileage on the freeway than in the city. An EGR valve that is stuck open, a leaking Intake Manifold Gasket, a defective Mass Air Flow Sensor, a weak or failing fuel pump, or a plugged fuel filter are some of the many causes for a lean misfire.
Mechanical problems can also cause an engine to misfire. Common causes of a mechanical misfire are worn piston rings, valves, cylinder walls, or lobes on a camshaft; a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket; damaged or broken rocker arms; defective fuel injectors (and/or the electronics that control them); and a slipped or incorrectly-installed timing belt or timing chain. Generally, this type of misfire has more of a "thumping" feel to it. It is usually noticeable regardless of engine speed; in fact, it may even intensify as the engine speed increases.
Sometimes, the engine has nothing to do with a misfire. One common cause for "jerky" performance that feels like a misfire is a problem in the transmission and its ability to properly up- or down-shift. If the misfire occurs during higher speeds, it could be a problem with the operation of the overdrive gear or a chattering clutch in the Lockup Torque Converter. If the vehicle jerks or feels like it is "missing" during deceleration, it could be due to harsh transmission downshifts, badly warped rotors, out of round brake drums, and/or sticking brake pads or brake shoes.
Make sure that you have the vehicle properly inspected in order to determine the root cause of the misfire. Entire engines have been replaced to solve a wrongly perceived mechanical misfire problem that was actually rooted in the transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, or front/rear differential.
Daniel Dillon has twenty-two years of experience as a licensed Smog Technician in California. He helped write test questions for the California Smog Technician Exam and has performed Consumer Assistance Program and gold shield diagnostic work for the state. He was also an instructor for SnapOn Tool Corporation.
you could also try this link...
on Dec 14, 2016
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