Top 20 2008 Volvo V50 Questions & Answers

if i was you i would just take it to volvo and get it worked on.

There's a relatively easy test. Use a rubber glove and hold it over teh oil filler while the engine is idling. If it inflates the glove, you need to replace the PCV kit. Also, do the same over the dip stick tube. If it inflates... It should gently suck the glove in, showing slight vacuum. As for replacing it - wheee! That's a fun one. You basically remove the fan, the air tube (if it's a turbo) and then the intake manifold. Then you replace the oil separator, use a zip tie to poke around the drain from the oil separator to ensure that's open. The banjo bolts are the hard parts to get to, but otherwise it's more tedious than difficult. There's a kit from FCP that is about $350 or so, and contains all the parts. I ended up using regular screw-type clamps instead of the Oetiker 'squeeze' clamps Volvo used on the hose connections.

Common fault,usually goes off on its own,nothing life threatening though.

Also possibly a slightly stuck brake caliper, or on a long shot, a CV joint. But the CV joint would be more likely if it was making noise when turning. Could also be a spring/strut/sway bar or other suspension component in need of lubrication, depending on how long the creaking lasts, etc.

ALL SEATS HAVE FREE PLAY IN THEM.

Sorry, there's no way to change the language without visiting Volvo dealer or electronic workshop.

Go here for instructions.

According to the information that I have (which is extremely limited because Volvo does not like to give up such things) neither the 2.4L, 5-cylinder or the 2,5L Turbo 5-cylinder engines are equipped with downstream air injection. Therefore, there would be no "smog pump". Why are you looking for it?

This is caused by a defective clutch pressure release bearing, the release bearing is the only part that can cause this symptom. To replace the clutch release bearing requires the transmission be removed from the car, the release bearing rides on the input shaft collar of the transmission input shaft which goes into the clutch disk. If you replace the release bearing you should have the clutch disk and pressure plate replaced at the same time as the labor cost is about the same just to do the bearing.

OTE: If the service interval indicator flashes it may be caused by one of the service interval indicator parameters not being programmed. This can only be carried out using suitable diagnostic equipment. Always check for any stored trouble codes as this may affect the resetting of the service interval indicator.
Ensure all doors are closed. Turn ignition key to position I. Press and hold reset button [A] 104667 07, 116126 07 Immediately turn ignition key to position II (within 2 seconds). Keep button [A] depressed until service message has been reset. A yellow warning light [B] will illuminate when it is time to release button [A]. Release reset button [A] within 4 seconds. There will be an audible signal when reset is complete. If reset button is not released within 4 seconds, the service interval indicator will not be reset.
RESET BUTTON IS TRIP BUTTON

sending unit in fuel tank is probably bad

By the sound of it, it's the power for the remote mirror to change dim when a car from behind aproaches with lights on. Check with the dealer to be certain.

I would unhook the battery to stop the drain until an electrical shop can look at it.

I solved this on my 95 volvo 850 glt as follows:

pull the seatbelt pilar cover off from the door jamb. this runs vertically up the pilar between the front an back door (beside the front seats. Once opened loosen the belt by gently pulling the belt upward toward the roof. You'll have to do this sometimes in small increments. Once the seatbelt is pulled out all the way, spray small amount of lubricant into the joint where at the top of the belt spool. Also use a screw driver to push spool upward while pulling the belt. At first it's only going to release a little but eventually the lubricant will work its way into the seam at the top of the belt spool and loosen up the stuck inertia catch. Until it completely loosens you might have to remove the pilar cover again and work the seatbelt out (also use the screw driver technique described above) in order to use the seatbelt. When parking, I would relatch the seatbelt and pull the slack up around the back of the head rest. After a day or so it worked normally.

good luck and don't give up.

Heres how:

mines got same problem

It's under the dashboard. First you must dismount the accelerator pedal (!), remove some dashboard plastic on driver side. The filter is somewhere behind the central console.
I think it should be changed every two years. Look into the manual.
The company where you take the car for oil & filter change every year must change also this filter with no additional charges. Of course they charge you for the filter, which is not very exponsive.