Top 20 2008 Volvo S80 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

THIS VEHICLE IS GOING TO HAVE TO GO TO THE DEALER TO GET THE IMMOBILIZER REPROGRAMMED SO THAT YOU CAN GET IT TO START

CHECK THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS

The clicking noise,can be due to worn out brake pads,or brake caliper nut loose .Also check the bake fluid if its low,then refill it.But as you mentioned that clicking noise is now gone,but still ABS light is on and Again check engine light is ON.The check engine light on may be indication of any other fault causing this.Disconnect the car battery for 30 minutes/.Then reconnect and start the car and check.And see if that is getting reset.If still both ABS and Check engine lights are ON.Then car has to be scanned at diagnostic center.At www.autozone.com its absolutely free to get car scanned,.So you can get the car scanned there and confirm the fault.If its any other error then that is the cause of check engine light.But if the same p1550 error is coming up,that means the ABS module is not got properly repaired or its not properly connected.Remove and recheck the module.Also its possible that ABS controlling fuses are blown out and causing this problem.Also possible that ABS pump motor is getting overheated and causing this ABS light to come ON.---------- For more details and repairing ABS module help:-- Please click on the link below:-- http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/s80_abs/s80_volvo_abs_removal.htm
--------- This will help. Thanks.Helpmech.

haha, sorry no additives. Take it to your local autoparts, (Autozone, Advance, etc) have them do a free fault scan. They come out to your car, plug in their scanner, read the faults, print them out for you and reset the lights - FREE

Can you get tinting for the bottom of your windscreen. I've only seen the blue tint on the top of windows. Or maybe a dash mat.

its very simple go ahead change your oil after that turn off the car then put it back the key to ignition but before that press the single pin from the cluster or the speedometer and dont remove it just leave your hand until u start then it will automatically shut down the led or the light..

You will need to replace the MAF sensor and O2 sensors. After you replace them both you will need to repopulate the long-term fuel trim data tables. Remove your car battery and then cross the terminal wires and let it sit over a weekend to drain any NiCAD or NiMHi batteries in the modules to clear the codes. Click on the link below to read more:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19682&start=0

These are not generally made available by the manufacturer.
Stuart
I would suggest you join up to one or 2 of the better VOLVO online forums (there are a few). There may be someone there who has some downloadable material they can email to you or know where you can get an unofficial copy of the CDs.

I recently secured workshop manual info from a forum member for another vehicle (not a Volvo) which he had copied from the manufacturer's CDs he had access to. Very useful because you cannot get the CDs officially.

These on line Car forums can be very useful.

I hope this helps some. Good luck with it. (Lots of issues with those S80s unfortunately).

Sean

REPLACE THEMOSTAT SOUND LIKE TRYING TO STICK CLOSE.

i dont think they will replace the computer for nothinig after a couple of years ,best bet is to go to scrapyard and get one their complete with the chip out of the lkey and the transponder and the transponder read box as well

your brake switch is gone.

Which fan motor do you want to repair, the one inside the car for climate control or outside for engine cooling next to radiator? Inside locate fan please note some libraries have repair manuals that you can check with them for free you usually can go and find at least the location this way. Check fuse location and electrically check BOTH SIDES of the fuse with a digital volt meter not a test light some circuits in newer computer control vehicles can be damaged by test lights. Once you find the fan (inside) it also has a resister pack usually somewhere on the a/c heater assembly, check for voltage at the input of the motor AND the ground side also remember electricity needs a complete circuit.
If outside cooling motor look for a fuse box outside in the engine compartment and check that also inspect the wiring connections in line for melting usually at the motor this is a tell tale sign that the motor is using too much current. Also there needs to be a temperature switch in the cooling system sometimes in the radiator or in the engine/block/head. watch the color code of the wire from motor trace back usually to a relay or two speed resister block. Also some cars have a secondary fan for the A/C condenser I assume you don't mean this one.

evap emission control system leak ( large ) vent line off of gas tank to engine is leaking gas fumes its best to go to a dealer for this or a shop with a smoke machine tester it pumps smoke into the line to show where the leak is you wont pass inspection with this if they do emissions testing in your state hope this helps

Aftermarket oil filters will do this. Causing a lack of oil pressure when idleing and starting. Replace your oil filter with one from Volvo ALWAYS!!

1st make sure the dash lighting dimmer control switch is not turned off, this is a common reason believe it or not. if that is not the problem replace the dash light dimmer control.

Check your fuel tank cap to see if it is closed tight. If the engine is misfiring then have the catalytic converter checked out. Look in the back of a Haynes repair manual and match the code up to your code and it will pinpoint the exact component that has failed

What year, model and engine size?

yes you most likely have a speed sensor issue probably from one of the wheel speed sensors check wiring and connections at wheels

repair manual if you are serious. or http://www.manualslib.com/

i believe there are 4 o2 sensors on that car