Step 1
Let the tires cool before checking their pressure (tires are more inflated when warm, less when cold).
Step 2
jQuery(document).ready(function(){
jQuery('#jsArticleStep2 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.co.uk/images/a00/01/q9/check-add-air-1.2-800X800.jpg');
});
Remove the cap from the valve on 1 tire.
Step 3
jQuery(document).ready(function(){
jQuery('#jsArticleStep3 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.co.uk/images/a00/01/q9/check-add-air-1.3-800X800.jpg');
});
Press a tire gauge hard onto the valve and note the reading. The sound of escaping air means you haven't inserted the gauge properly: it's either pressed on askew or you're pressing too lightly.
Step 4
Add air to achieve recommended pressure, which is listed on a sticker on the driver's side doorjamb and in the car's manual. If you overfill, you can release air by pushing on the tiny metal stem in the center of the valve with a fingernail or the tip of a pen or pencil. If you need to guess, 32 psi (pounds per square inch) is a good rule of thumb for most passenger cars with standard tires.
Step 6
Repeat with each tire, including the spare (the status of its pressure is often forgotten until it's needed, and then it's too late).
Step 7
Check the tread depth. Recommended depth differs with types of tires. For a standard sedan tire, a penny pushed into the tread can give you a rough reading. If you can see any of Lincoln's head, it may be time to replace the tire. A $15 tread-depth gauge can give you a more accurate reading. There may also be wear indicators built into the tread; if they show, replace the tire.
Step 8
Check for even wear (see "How to Interpret Your Car's Tire Wear.") If the treads on the outside or inside are particularly worn, you may need to rotate your tires or have your alignment checked.
jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){
var $this = jQuery(this);
$this.find('img').error(function(){
jQuery(this).remove();
$this.remove();
});
});
The entire headlight buckets are easily removed from the top of the engine compartment. Nylon clips and or screws hold them in place. Don't mess with the headlight adjusting screws.The whole assembly comes out and the bulbs turn out by twisting them an eighth of a turn. Be careful not to touch the new bulbs with your hands. Dab on a little silicone ignition grease on the contact points before forcing the new bulbs back in the sockets. Use a paper towel to insert them in the sockets. Grease and or oil from your hands will cause the new bulbs to over heat and break.
Make certain that something is not turned on that is wearing the battery down, like hood or trunk light always being on, dash lights left on, etc..
It could be an intermittently bad cell in the battery that the dealer could not detect. I would document the failure (time and date) and let the dealer know your dilemma. If you work with him, he should work with you.
Alternative is to go to WalMart and get a new battery as pro-ration of the current battery from the dealer will cost you more than a new battery would from WM.
Did you check the master cylinder inside the car? Usually that is where it leaks, not the engine compartment. You will have to pull back the carpet a bit and will need a good light to check for dampness there.
The leak may be in the brake lines or near the breaks itself. I would recommend that the car be brought to the shop if you do not see any leaks on the items I have mentioned to avoid accidents.
get it replaced under new car warranty,3 years 60,000 miles(100,000 klms)its is still under warranty seeing its an 07,i think the switch controls the shift coming out of park and locks park if its playing up
If the air bag light is flashing- that means there is problem with your SRS air bag system. It stored a code in the computer and wont turn off untill the problem is fixed or cleared manualy with a scan tool- note if you choose to clear the code and turn off the light with a scan tool- if the problem with the system is still there the computer in your car will notice it and store another code and the light will come right back on. also Note that if the air bag light or SRS light is on while driving that system is shut down and your air bags WILL NOT go off if you get into an accident. (the same rules apply if your ABS- anti lock brake light is on- the ABS system will not work) the most common problem with the Altimas and air bag codes are the clock spring assembly located behind your steering wheel- (not the air bag itself on the steering wheel) but there is a round thing that turns with a wire connected to it. you have to remove the steering wheel to service. Best bet - go somewhere that has a scan tool and read what code the computer stored. It will tell you what part of the system has the problem.
Very interesting post, But I can't help but think there must still be a problem if you have to press the brake pedal really hard. I am not doubting you one bit on what you were told but it seems a bit odd to me.
I can see where a bad brake switch could cause this problem, ( The switch that lets the car know your brake is applied and it is safe to start the car).
It sounds normal white smoke comes from moisture in the air as it's burned and the air temprature is different. it creates steam they gray smoke is a little harder to decide what it is, normally gray smoke is related to oil burning and black is over fuel, depending on how many miles it has on it it could have bad valve guide seals but would not worry about it.
Starter and lights have nothing to do with each other except that the light being on will drain the battery and the starter will then not work. Find the light problem and charge the battery and the car should start. If you can't find the light problem either pull it's fuse or remove the bulb(s) that are on. I'm sure you need the car more than you need the lights right now.