Top 20 2007 Jeep Compass Limited Questions & Answers

Consider replacing the potentiometers. They wear over time. Check with a VOM and you may find similar "opens" on the throttle pedal potentiometer. Throttle and perhaps stepper motor are suspect. PREsume that you checked for leaks...., right? Doc

here are some youtubes on how to do this pick one that looks like you can follow and see if it works out for you. it sure looks like it will be a job. good luck on this job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_Lgi7xjFIs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4vTZgh48AU

Fuel pump loose or dying.

Don't know where you found those DTC'S , but they are not OBD 2 codes . DTC's come with a letter in the front of the number > P- for powertrain , engine , transmission . B - for body DTC'S - lights - C- chassis ABS . Trouble Codes

It is probably your button. Pretty easy to replace and verify. If you take it out and cross the wires to open it, and it opens, then you know for sure it is the button.

English please, and engine size? is there are 4 engines used. what is Seme in spanish.? comienza?

Spray some penetrant on the screws, wait a bit and carefully turn them out.

My suggestion is to check the wiring harness and connection. check fuses and relays, most likely you will find a simple wiring problem.

vapor recovery tube is clogged,(vent tube,next to fill tube)

First..,Get new part and also a new belt if belt has never been changed..Make sure part is correct,Use safety glasses..Be sure engine is cold..,Notice sticker under hood that shows belt routing diagram..If there isn't a sticker you can hand draw your own..Disconnect battery ground cable..Remove serpentine belt..If you have never replaced a serpentine belt it will get you confused but it is VERY EASY..It should have a diagram of how it is removed on the sticker showing the belt..The salesman at the parts store can show you easier than I can tell you..After removing belt ..,inspect all pulleys for tightness or any type of wobble..Look for any small shines of metal fragments around pulleys..Spin pulleys to make sure they don't have a worn bearing noise and they spin freely......If one seems damaged now is the time to replace it...remove wiring from alternator carefully..Remove alternator mounting bolts..Use a small pry bar or large flat screwdriver to pry the alternator carefully at both sides upward to remove it..It has a small bushing inside of the lower mounting holes which slides in and out to help keep alternator in position.The old alternator is to be turned in to parts store for a core credit so try not to damage it....Lube mounting holes of new alternator so it will slide into place smoothly..Install bolts and get them all hand tight then snug each bolt lightly until they are all seated then torque each bolt..Torque tight but DONT OVER TIGHTEN..It should be no more than 40lbs.torque..carefully connect alternator wiring..Install new belt..Doublecheck everything..,remove all tools from under hood..Coonect battery and start engine for safety check...

same as all cars pull battery neg lug first the youtube this. 10000s of posts there on topic. belt off,wires off, unbolt it. same-o-same-o endless.

please say what part , exactly and the JOB? time is variable by , tools, skills, experience, and shop setup. we know ,non of that.

I agree with Don. Even the transmission cross member is a bit of a challenge.

probably a bad battery. have a load test done to check for failing cells . batteries collapse in cold weather.

not sure what the question is so try next time to be more specific. if you pedal sensor is bad. you will need to go buy the new pedal sensor and then replace it. move the front seat back to give you more room and then look at the gas pedal and find the switch plug and unplug it. then unbolt the pedal if its sold as an assembly and replace

all OBD2 cars are the same in order of less collateral damage.

1. drive and it will self clear, on every car made. can take like many driving cycles. (no DTC # posted, so cant guess)
2. press reset on any OBD2 scan tool made, (amazing huh>)?)_
3. pull the super secret PCM memory fuse. FSM shows this.
4. as does, the alldata.com can VARY by UNSTATED engine option.
5. jerk the battery neg lug, killing all radio programming and if car has NAV or radio theft codes, risk loosing all that.

all cars, the newer the worse. on some cars you can looseIDLE learnsteering learn.transmission learn.and more. no , id didnt look look yours up, because i cant seeyour options,. (day one configs)here is the official page for the FSMhttps://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspxread it or post what your car has.which enginewhat radio model.what transmissions and 4wd optionsgot NAV?next time scan the cars PCM and post the DTC numberswe can answer, 100x better with real codes. from the scan tool.

Blower motor? It is on the passenger side. under the dash. three bolts/screws. Remove the under dash cover to access it .

fuse 23 blown? is car battery discharged? (other symptoms not stated ?)my guess is you can't see the horn, and the bolt?.but can't reach it? that it?That is correct. the relay is buried deep inside the TIPM where I only go...and others ,not shy... im not so daft to replace a whole, TIPM for a bad relay or driver. for any horn... but you can....it is your cash.MP(49) schematic. is clear. as day.well was before fixya blurred it.(full)1: is horn ground rusty? (look, examine...)2: does 12vdc reach horn , honking (a voltmeter tells you this)if #2 fails the PCM must be scanned to see why.a must. scan it NOW.B2336? B2338 (horn not grounded)b2371 is shorted hornlike that?if there is DTC that says the horn driver is bad, it is... end story. well, not doing the bad story.and swapping in new TIPM.'or reprogramming scrambled is dealer only fix.

Depending on the year, it is either a 32mm or 36mm. Most likely 36mm. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathan_cc888cf971f43e78

How tight did you make the nut holding the bearings onto the spindle? Did you change the bearing races too? Recheck the torque values to see if they are correct. an old race on a new bearing will cause temperature problems.