Top 20 2007 Mercedes-Benz S-Class Questions & Answers

engine manage lights and limp mode are activated from the engine AND the transmission faults may be the mechanic is looking in the wrong area for the fault as it could be a TCM or wiring problem in the transmission discuss it with MB headquarters technicians as the local shop may not have the experience to fix problems

not normally it should be a couple of clips see this thread http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1585708-diy-replace-front-right-speed-sensor.html seaming there is 1 per side

hi,first off all open bonnet and undo cap on brake master cylinder reservare,(put a nice absorbant cloth round the reservare just to be shore not to get the brake flued on eney paint work,as it will damidge it),then jack car up and take road wheele off,(make shore hand brake is off and car has some wedge shape wood under front wheele so that car cant move eneywhere),the calipper that holds the brack pads in place has two bolts at the back off the calipper,if there is wires coming out of the brake pads undo at connectors,(these are brake sensors to worn you when the brake pads are worn out,not all mercedes have them),right you need to fist get a screwdriver and put it between the pad and disc and push gently so the piston thats in the calipper(on the inside of the calipper)moves in so that the pads can now move back and forth a little bit in the calipper,now you can undo the two bolts on the back of the calipper the calipper will come off the car,now push the pads apart so that the piston is pushed right into the calipper,(you can do this with a g-clamp or grips then put a spanner in between the brake pads to stop the piston from moving back out)now you can carefuly put the calipper aside being carefull not to stretch the brake hose, now the brake disc (rotor)if you look at the disc where the studs are you will see a small screw or allan-key fitting undo that and the disc will come off(some times you might have to just give it a little bit of help by hitting the disc gently with a hammer), then put it back in reverce of taking apart(dont forget when you have put it back together press the brake peddle a couple of times then top up the brake fluid in the reservare in between the recarmended lines on the reservare. Hope this helps,good luck,its quite a strate forwould job. (sorry about spelling.

The pollen filter for 2006 on s class w 221 is under the clove box passenger side , remove outer cover , this is the one with the light for footwell, 4 screws then the two filters are behind a cover with two slides , remove this and filters are in the housing, remember which way you take out filters as there is a back and front side / airflow direction. Move seat as far back as possible to give you room to work.

Try fuse then igniter or ballast, if light was flickering before bulb stopped working then igniter s problem

My 2009 Mercedes s 550 hazard light won't turn off

First of all you need to access the Engine Control Module (ECM) using suitable diagnostic equipment (Star, Bosch KTS, Texa, ...) connected to the data link connector of the car, in order to pull out all DTC's memored. DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code. Then you will bu full informed about the root cause of the problem, and you will be able to repair & replace bad pieces and reset the ECM.
Let me know please about found DTC codes. I guess that in your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
I had some cars like Mercedes-Banz, BMW, Audi, VW, ... with Diesel Turbo Intercooled engines which slowly start to lose power. The root cause of the problem was bad turbocharger.
Turbocharger checking & reparation instructions:
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

i wouldnt even try to hazard a guess without a test drive ,sorry -ask a local mechanic to have a drive and post what he says then we can try to work it out a bit better and come up with alternatives to check for

remove the glovebox assembly-usually 4-6 philips screws in glovebox,remove and pull out glovebox,there is a plastic cover with a white lock slide at the right side of the heater box-light it up and remove from tabs,remove filters and install plastic tabs up,when installing the cover back on with white locking tab,make sure you get the tabs back into their slots and lock down-might cause whistling if not properly installed,reassemble

crankshaft or camshaft position sensors faulty-most likely crankshaft

check ur tire pressures-when cars sit for very long periods of time,they also develop flat spots in tires if not driven-check suspension and tires first,doubt "air lock" is causing this

Your R13 may be so low that the compressor does not kick on. This is a protective design becasue when the R13, which lubricates the compressor as well as cools it runs out the compressor will seize. Depenmding on the age of the car, add more refrigerant or have the system evacuated, pressure tested, repaired and refilled. A lot of times the evaporator leaks first

switch to actuate window is bad,regulator has come apart or door control module is fried

new blower motor regulator-if this doesnt fix,new blower motor

there was a class action law suite not too long ago,sounds like you have some piston slap going on,short block needs to be replaced-take to a different dealer and tell them that ever since the other dealer worked on it,this noise has emerged

Question edited for clarity, add maker and model. Question moved to model category. Help and videos https://www.google.com/search?q=W220+bypass+airmatic+compressor ..

Pull the fuse that does the audio system, count to 10, put it back in and try again

1. buy the shop manual
2. or get car serviced, with MB shops that ever saw one.before.
3. look at it and say to self what needs to be pulled first, things easy, bingo now you did it all by your self ,just looking first
4. gets some quotes on this job , ask for the labor estimate and be in for shock. MB shoe horned cars. V8 huge and body small.(there)

You will need to trace the wire back towards the supply of power, could be a loose connection for example