Top 20 2007 Subaru Forester 2.5X L.L. Bean Edition - Page 2 Questions & Answers

On mine, I got under there and there are rocks rattling in the heat shield. There are factory made holes in it, and the rocks sit in there like eggs in a carton and rattle when the engine hits a certain vibration frequency which is basically when it is at a stop light or idling. The repair shop wanted to charge to cut them off but I think I am going to drill bigger holes so the rocks fall out, as they are pretty tiny.

it is big end bearing.

there should be a collar that you have to take off first

I think you meant to write: ...drones with a slight modulation like overly loud road noise.

those are not codes those show that you didnt read instructions completely on the use of your scan tool those show that their are codes present depending on unit you either hit next or codes or enter rescan vehicle and continue to next page when those show up

It sounds like you over heated the engine and have damaged the head gasket. do not drive and have you car looked at more in detail to confirm the head gasket is indeed the problem

fuse 4 underhood fuse box and circuit breaker left end of dash

Sounds like your in tank pump isn't working.....and you have no fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine. See if you can tell that it turns on when you turn the key on....I'm not familiar with Subarus so I don't know if you can hear them spin up or not......Most any shop can tell you if you have fuel pressure at the rail....the other way is to loosen the fuel line at the rail and turn the key to on ( not crank) and see if you have fuel leaking from the loosened connection.

Check oil level and colour in the box if black or sludgy then change if not then look to torque convertor issue

No - bleeding can be done well statically. Use a bleed tool to help get it right. After complete - check vacuum lines to master cylinder for cracks or leaks.

Start with the simple stuff: is the exhaust system fully supported? Harder stuff: check for ... * loose rear suspension components (unlikely) * prop shaft U-joint wear (also unlikely) * rear transmission support blocks

The 2007 is very similar to the 2005, which has the DRL box behind the glove compartment, at the top center. It's clearly marked DRL.

That most likely is the brake lights staying on because the brake light switch under dash is out of adjustment and the brake pedal is not touching the button to shut it off. Possibly the spring is disconnected that pulls the pedal up against the brake light switch button. Check this out.

If it can be jumped at the solenoid then I would check out the ignition switch or the actual key cylinder insert. Some key inserts have plastic tabs on the sides or end and these will wear over time

Without seeing them my experience says they are clips that have two pieces. Simply put a screwdriver in the slot and turn like u do a screw but be very careful these are very fragile. When they are almost out pull cover off

What is the problem, it just bolts down over the spark plug.

Hi to reset computer just unhook the battery leads for an hour or so, Also check your fuses again, this time with a tester. Sometimes the break in the fuse wire is so small you miss it. Also you may have a loose connection(fuse not pushes all the way in). Check your relay switches in the black box in the engine bay as well as the fuses in the same box. Hope this helps.

could be condensation leaking from a small hole. I have seen some mufflers with a hole about 1/16" just for that purpose. It would do you some good to try and pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. Also, if you are not loosing any coolant, probably nothing to worry about. For coolant to come out exhaust, in most cases, you would have to have coolant entering a cylinder and it would show up in poor performance, very white smoke out exhaust while driving, and lose of coolant.

The latch handle pivots are rusted. Getting the handle off requires: * remove the hatch inner panels. * remove the nuts that secure the outside time panel under the hatch glass. I don't recall if this is actually needed ... * remove the nuts that hold the latch handle, and disconnect the rod to the lock mechanism. You can now either clean up the latch handle or replace it with a new one.