20 Most Recent 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali - Page 9 Questions & Answers

on yukon bring up display and either push to reset button or press and hold down the trip odometer button [dont know what year vehicle u have] and it will reset back to 100% also your manual has how to reset the oil as well

30 MINUTE RELEARN PROCEDURE

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON, vehicle will not start.
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale. After approximately 10 minutes, the telltale will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
6. Important: The vehicle learns the password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
7. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the password.

If this doesn't work, it is possible to bypass the security http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

possible lose connection to battery or ground on the body.Grab and twist every ground wire you see .tight and clean oxydaition.

not that this is going to really help your overall problem but I can tell you that smelling antifreeze in the cabin and if the foormats are wet in the front then it is probably your heater core that has sprung a leak. Think of your heater core as a mini radiator but inside the vehicle and they are usually tucked up inside the dash somewhere and is usually quite expensive to have repaired because of all the labor involved. I just replaced mine in my 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis and it took me about 10 hours to change out. And i am a mechanic.As for your electrical problems I would personally contact the dealership and as them about recalls or technical bulletins concerning your 2003 GMC Yukon xl denali. Good Luck.

Hey jessica, from what you describe it sounds like a fuel pressure problem. A vehicle can have "weak" fuel pressure & may still be drivable but will not perform well on a hard acceleration. First get the fuel pressure checked and PLEASE go to someone who will use a fuel pressure gauge not stick a screwdriver in the test port and see if fuel sprays out! I believe the fuel pressure spec. for this vehicle is 55-60 psi with the key on. The codes po171,174 indicate "both banks lean" which could be caused by a lack of fuel pressure. These codes can be caused by a M.A.F. sensor problem (Mass Air Flow sensor). Common problems with M.A.F. sensors - they can get dirty and not work properly. I still highly recommend the fuel pressure test first! If it lacks pressure you know you have a bad pump. If the vehicle has a replacable fuel filter this needs to be checked & or replaced then re-check fuel pressure. If fuel pressure is OK then check for problems with the M.A.F. ( Dirty, Air leaks between sensor & engine throttle body, defective sensor) Hope this helps!

Not without you having the engine computer checked for trouble codes. Most auto parts stores will scan the computer for free in hopes of selling you some parts. The codes are a guide as to what to test.

Time for oil change? Loose gas cap? Auto zone and several other parts stores will hook a reader to the plug under the steering column and read the code. Best news is they do it for free.

Were the battery terminals tight ? Corroded ?

if no leaks found at the hoses. check your oil cap .if no gunk found . check for leaks at the heater on the drivers floor. if ok change your expansion bottle cap .

bad air/fuel mixture could cause rod knock like that, which is a for of backlash or whip like action. Detonation, like very poor grade of fuel. IF your engineis running really rich, the extra rich fuel goes by your piston rings and thins out your engine oil. If you have a bad ROD bearing, it is probably TOO LATE. CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY and IAC valve, since these things fine tune your FUEL/AIR mixture and PREVENT rich running. GOOD LUCK!!

check for vacuum leakage in emissions lines..and see if the ignition chip is getting hot ant shutting off.. also check the autoshutoff relay..it controls the ignition and the fuel pump..

I've had the same problem with the reduced power and tps sensor which is your gas pedal. I replaced it but the problem still existed. I then changed the throttle body and harness to the throttle body but still had the same problem. So I traded the vehicle. I did everything the dealer suggested and I just cut my losses. The Yukon overheating would be a different problem and should be easy to fix.

There are only two screws on most TPS SensorsEither a T20 Torx head or a small Hex & of coarsethe wire connectorA Code for that or any sensor, doesn't mean or tell youto replace it.Codes are used along with reference material & diagnosticcharts,to decide what & how to test thingsNothing ever gets replaced, that is not understood orhas not failed a testTo do so otherwise, is the Push & Poke,Wish & HopeDiagnostic theory, of throwing parts at something,thuslearning nothing.You may have to use a hair dryer to soften the threadlocker on the screws