2007 Subaru B9 Tribeca - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check circuit --ground -connections and unit

was the replaced ignition flashed to the vehicle

'standard' as in a stick shift, not automatic? That is not a model and has nothing to do with the spark plug gap. The search query for this would simply be year make model spark plug gap and you will find something like this which says 32 thou.

1978 Subaru DL Spark Plug - StockWise Auto

https://www.stockwiseauto.com > ... > Secondary Ignition Products 1 - 25 of 30 - 1978 Subaru DL equipped with 1.6L H4 Gas OHV Standard Spark Plug Gap 0.032. Actual OE Manufacturer 4 Per Vehicle ... https://www.google.com/search?q=1978+subaru+standard+spark+plug+gap ..

https://www.onlymanuals.com/subaru/legacy free down load repair manuals

Very good chance that teeth are missing from the fly wheel. Remove the starter and inspect the teeth of the flywheel

internal circuit fail

They are supposed to, on the second turn of the key. They alert you that all the bulbs as working 1. Off 2. Accessories 3. Pre-start - warning lights on 4. Start and when key is released the lights go off.

Its behind the dash its round in shape. hard to reach need to remove the lower panel use a long screwdriver to pop the bracket open to gain access the clip/bracket is round and has a tab that opens

Search Results for the easy solution download the pdf file

If the brake lights don't work, check the fuse for the circuit; take a look a the brake light switch and, if necessary, the multifunction switch. You can test the brake light switch with a test light. You might check the wiring that it is completely connected or not.

check your coil packs

A motor mount might be broken..

odd as it might seem only a person that can put hands on it can assist you

go to a local auto parts store and ask them

Do you get anything at all at the ignition? Lights? Warning messages? A 'Clunk' as you turn the key to start the engine? Please use the comment button below with more information and I'll try to give you more help.

There are two ways to do this. First is to remove entire instrument panel or cut a hole in your firewall and alwayts have easy access to your core

That circuit usually includes these possible components: A/C Control Module Body integrated unit Light control sensor Transmission Control Module Engine Control Module Fuel pump relay Ignition coil No. 1 (turbo model) Ignition coil No. 2 (turbo model) Ignition coil No. 3 (turbo model) Ignition coil No. 4 (turbo model) If it takes a minute to blow the fuse then definitely one of components in list is causing too much amperage. try a slightly larger fuse.

Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Is the vehicle automatic or manual transmission? Is there a security system? I couldn't get the whole diagram in one picture. With starter on vehicle, two voltage circuits, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit goes hot with key in the crank position and goes through inhibiter switch for automatic. your security system may be involved and there is a cultch switch for manual transmission. The starter motor grounds through engine block. Any testing at starter motor, make sure transmission is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Vehicle can't move.

The am antenna is in the radio..it cud b worn or the tuners may hav burnt. Its an old radio. Junkyards hav them cheap n workable cause theyr wreckcars

Dirty contacts to the battery. Bad grounds, battery to body. Bad ground on Starter Motor. Loose Live terminal on the Starter. Check with a multimeter. The key is voltages and amperage being in the right place. I would also test the new battery for voltage and amps. What happens if you connect jump leads from the battery direct to the starter? Hopefully Jeff Armer will be along, he is our auto electrical specialist. I am just an amateur from the days when fixing scooters, motorcycles and cars was easy.