2001 BMW 325i - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Read this forum . http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4970449-fuel_cut_off_switch_located_bmw_series_1

he could be close to the problem but get it to an accredited professional brake shop for a proper diasgnosis not enough brake pedal free play will do the same thing as will a faulty master cylinder not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir

Those codes mean the fuel to air ratio is to lean, not enough fuel. This is caused by quite a few things, most common is a intake manifold vacuum leak or other source (like hoses and the brake booster) A problem with the MAF (mass air flow) sensor can cause this as well if it is reading the incoming air volume wrong.

check fuse or open circuit crank sensor

Try turning the steering wheel a bit and holding it so that it takes pressure off locking mechanism. Then turn key. When I first got my 530 I had to call the dealer to figure this out. Hopefully it works for you.

Do you have check engine light on? You probably forgot to plug something in when you where putting it back together.

Are there 3 or 4 O2 sensors on that? 2.5 ltr??

Car only stalled steering got tight because pump stopped temp light came on because it stalled

You may have still air lock,if not could be plug radiator.

Well Michael put your hand on radiator upper hose and then the lower hose right after car warms up and just starts overheating is there a temperature difference if so one of two things is going on thermostat not opening even though it is new or there is still an air bubble in the cooling system if nthere is no difference and still overheating might have to explore headgasket being blown

A used transmission still needs to be installed, which will be very expensive on top of the price of the part. The good news is that the problem is probably the valve body, not the transmission itself. The transmission is the gear mechanism and the valve body is the electro-mechanical brain which causes the transmission to engage. It sits inside the transmission oil pan and it is very common for these to wear out after 10-12 years. You can get a rebuilt valve body on ebay. Just make sure you get the right one. I recommend you call the rebuild shop prior to making the bid. It will be 500-600$ last time I checked, but could be higher or lower. The big savings is that the replacement is easy. Maybe a two hour job, including the transmission oil and filter change you must do at the same time. The filter and oil will be about 125$ and the labor should be 250$ or less for the whole job. The sad fact is that some shops say they "put in" a used transmission and all they really do is repair or replace the valve body. They end up charging 2000$ labor for a two hour job. Anyway, Good luck!!

If you have clean oil and plenty of pressure (check with echanical gauge) then sender uit is likely bad or leaking.

on the oil filter housing

Hi, Micheal Your car was tested when new to not let moisture into any electrical components at the factory, however with age and use sometimes a little water can sneak in. You are correct in assuming the Circuit Resister Block has been affected. That is where I would go 2nd following the fuse 1st. If the fuse is powered and good, check to see if you have power to the blower itself and you have no voltage at the blower the inline circuit fused link is suspect. If there is voltage at the blower and it is not working I'm afraid you may have burned the blower motor. NEVER EVER spray cold water on a warm~running engine. possible effects: cracked head~block, shorted ignition circuit, or other electric components. While you car is designed to resist water, They generally cannot protect it from COLD water sprayed directly onto it. That I'm afraid is physics. I hope this helps you Sir. Good luck, I'm here if you have further insights. Thank You for using FixYa.com!

you might go to dealer did you unhook the battery try unhooking it rehooking it up it up after20 seconds i look for relay instrument panel in engine compartment replace it

Failed ignition coils The ones you replaced may not be the issue Any coil can fail when it wants to Have to look at cylinder misfire counts on scan tool, use a scope,walk new coils,whatever it takes to find the bad ones

The culprit is likely a defective "park/neutral" switch inside the shifter mechanism. It is not an uncommon problem. If you are clever you may be able to repair it yourself. One common solution is to replace the entire shift mechanism (~$500 new) or with a used one from a scrap yard.

ok, check throttle cable for movement to the air intake area when you press on the pedal a cable pulls the throttle plate open and gives the tps sensor a reading telling the computer the pedal is moving

check for secondary air injection leaks, seals and plastic loom hoses go bad due to underhood engine heat. Performance trick is to wrap the exhaust in headder wrap to control underhood heat and save parts in long run. Also, vacuum check at the intake to test for leaks, Check injector o rings.

It's unkiely that all the door actuators are bad. The problem sounds like a voltage loss to the circuit. Check the fuses for the door locks.